Peerless Assembly Instructions

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Palmer Graphite Shaft Trimming Instructions

Golf Clubmaking is a relatively easy procedure that only requires minimal tools and expertise for simple single club or set production. Please feel free to print these instructions
Supplies required. Assemble golf clubs in an area with plent of ventilation.

Naphtha (available at hardware stores, flamable)
Paper Towels
Sandpaper (light/medium grit)
Epoxy (2 part) and mixing stick (popsicle stick, etc.)
Tools required
Vice on a workbench
Paint tray or other flat tray 1" deep
Tube/Pipe cutter/Hacksaw (for steel shafts only)
Abrasive blade/grit edge blade hacksaw (for graphite shafts) If using grit edge blade hacksaw, graphite shaft must be scored. Wrap graphite shaft with masking tape , measure amount to be cut, and make a partial circular cut into the graphite befor cutting through the shaft..
You will be cutting the shaft tips ("tipping") according to the flex that you want, sanding ("abrading") them so the epoxy will adhere, gluing the shafts in the heads, cutting the shafts to length ("trimming or "butt-cutting"), and finally gripping them. PLEASE READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY BEFORE BEGINNING ASSEMBLY.
Step by Step Instructions
1. Tipping the shaft.

All of the shafts that fit the National Golf heads are "unitized", meaning that the same shaft can be used for all woods and the same shaft can be used for all irons. All that is necessary is to cut the proper amount from the tip for each club. The tip is the narrow end of the shaft that will fit into the clubhead itself. Refer to the shaft trimming chart that shows you how much to cut off of each shaft and mark each shaft with a marker or grease pencil at the proper place. For graphite shafts, it is easier if you wrap a piece of masking tape around the area to be cut--this allowsl you to see your marke and reduces the chance of breaking or splintering. Cut steel shafts with a tube/pipe cutter and grapite shafts with an abrasive cut-off wheel or grit edge blade hacksaw.
2. Abrading the shaft.
To enable the epoxy to bond securely with the clubhead, all shafts must be abraded (or "roughed up"). While today's epoxies are very strong, none will adhere to the chrome on a steel shaft or the paint/polyurethane on a graphite shaft because they are too slick. Insert a pencil or small stick into each hsel and note how deep the shaft will go on the shaft to be abraded. For steel shfated clubs that do not require a ferrule, do not abrade the shaft above the mark where the hosel will end and the shfat will be exposed. We strongly suggest the use of ferrules an ALL graphite shafted clubs. The ferrule proveides just enough extra support for the shaft to reduce stress and breakage.
Sand steel shaft until scoring lines are evident and it feels rough to the touch. Sand graphite shafts through the finish of paint/polyurethane but DO NO go deeply into the shaft. The more graphite fibers that are exposed the greater chance that the graphite shaft will later splinter and break!
3. Attaching ferrules.
Slide the ferrule on the tip of the shaft, with the narrow end of the ferrule pointing toward the butt/grip end of the shaft. The ferrule will probably only go as far as the end of the abraded area. Place the club head on the tip of the shaft (NO GLUE YET!!!) and point the club with the butt end on the floor (preferably a concrete or hard floor) and "tap" the assembly so that the ferrule moves down the shaft and the shaft is completely to the bottom of the club's hosel. This is easly done by holding the club head with one hand and the shaft with the other and tapping the "butt" end of the shaft on the floor. Now the ferrule is positioned in the correct location of the shaft and should be flush with the hosel of the club head.
4. Glue the head.
Now is a good time to "double check" your work because there is no turning back once the gluing begins. If you are making an entire set of clubs the above steps shoud be completed for ALL of them before you begin gluing. The epoxy used is a two part quick setting epoxy (part A and part B) specially formulated for golf clubs. Follow the instructions on the epoxy container to achieve the proper mixture of part A and B (this is normally 50/50). You can use a piece of cardboard and a popsicle stick or equivalent to mix epoxy.

Use the popsicle stick to apply a thin, smooth coat of epoxy on the shaft all the way up to the ferrule---cover the shaft completely around. Use a nail (8d) or pencil to coat the inside of the club hosel.
Hold the clubhead with one hand and insert the shaft wiht the other, twisting the shaft 180 degrees as you insert it. Twisting coats the shaft and hosel evenly and removes most of the air bubble from the epoxy. The ferrule should fit snugly against the hosel and some of the epoxy should have "squeezed" out between them. Use the paper towel or a rag to wipe away excess epoxy in a circular motin around the ferrule. Moisten a second rag with naphtha/mineral spirits and wipe again. Repeat until you have removed all of the excess epoxy.

Align the shaft (usually graphite shafts have graphics painted /silk-screened on, and some steel shafts come with decals already attached) so each club is consistent. Most golfers want to look down the shaft and see a straight line of graphics that lead to the head of the club; others want the graphics to be invisible on the underside of the shaft--it's up to YOU!

5. Wait...and Wait... and Wait..........
Place the clubs against a wall with the head down and the shaft as straight as possible. The epoxy should harden in about two hours and cure in twenty-four hours at 77 degrees ( longer at colder temperatures).

6. Cut to playing length-After the epoxy has cured, mark the butt end of the shaft the same way as in step #1 for cutting. See trimming instructions for proper length. Most graphite shafts are cut 1/2" to 1" longer than steel if using steel-weighted clubheads. Simply hold the club as if you are in the playing position with the clubhead level and measure with a tape measure from the floor to the butt end of the grip. Mark and cut to final playing length.

7 .Grip and clean
Place the rubber shaft vice clamp about 16" from the butt end of the club and place in the vice. Align the head and tighten the vice such that you are looking down as you would while addressing the ball (i.e. square). Place the paint tray or equivalent under the butt end of the shaft to catch excess solvent.
The rubber shaft vice clamp makes gripping a bit easier. If you don't have a rubber shaft vice clamp, simply align the club as you were looking down as you would while addressing the ball and slide the grip in to position after the following instructions. Caution...solvent is flamable.

Cut the grip tape to about 10". Peel back on side of the backing and place on the shaft with about 3/4" extending over the end of the shaft. Remove the remaining backing.
B. Fold the tape around the shaft. Twist the tape hanging over the end of the shaft butt and push inside the shaft. The prevents solvent from entering the shaft during grip installation.
C. Block the vent hole in the end of the grip with your forefinger and pour naphtha or mineral spirits (caution... solvent is flamable) into the grip until the grip is about half full. Pinch the open end of the grip with the other hand and shake the grip to thoroughly wet the inside of the grip.
D. Pour the solvent out of the grip onto the entire length of the tape. The tray should catch the excess solvent. Caution...solvent is flamable.

Align the grip so that graphics, alignment"helpers", etc. are correct as you slip the grip on. Position the grip so that the hole is just below the shaft and you will push upward as you slip on the grip to get it started. This needs to be done quckly as the solvent will evaporate rapidly. Once you begin slipping on the grip KEEP GOING! If you stop in the middle you will likely have to cut off the grip and begin again!
F. As soon as the grip is completely on and you can feel the butt of the shaft quickly check the grip alignment and make adjustments while you still can. The grip will be dry and ready to play within about one hour. You will probably want to clean the club with a rag and some naphtha to remove any excess grip adhesive or dirt on the shaft. Caution...solvent is flamable.


Shaft Tip Trimming Instructions for Palmer Graphite Shafts.

Shaft Tip Trimming Instructions
Club R S Ladies (L) Senior (A) Standard Length (Steel)**
Driver 1" 2 1" 2" 43.5"
Fairway Driver 1.25" 2.25" 1.25" 2.5" 43"
3Wood 1.5" 2.5" 1.5" 2.5" 42.5"
5 Wood 2" 3" 2" 3" 41.5"
7 Wood 2" 3" 2" 3" 40"
9 Wood 2" 3" 2" 3" 40"
1 Iron N/A 1" N/A 1" 40"
2 Iron .25" 1.25" .25" 1.25" 39.5"
3 Iron .5" 1.5" .5" 1.5" 39"
4 Iron .75" 1.75" .75" 1.75" 38.5"
5 Iron 1" 2" 1" 2" 38"
6 Iron 1.25" 2.25" 1.25" 2.25" 37.5"
7 Iron 1.5" 2.5" 1.5" 2.5" 37"
8 Iron 1.75" 2.75" 1.75" 2.75" 36.5"
9 Iron 2" 3" 2" 3" 36"
PW 2" 3" 2" 3" 35.5"
SW 2" 3" 2" 3" 35.5"
LW 2" 3" 2" 3" 35.5
GW 2" 3" 2" 3" 35.5"

Note that you are tip trimming each club 1/4" more than the previous club and each club has a 1/2" difference in final playing length. Example: R flex 5 iron tip trim 1", R flex 6 iron tip trim 1.25". 5 iron final playing length is 1/2" longer than the 6 iron final playing length. Final playing length is measured with shaft inserted in clubhead.

**Graphite is normally cut 1/2" to 1" longer than steel for steel weighted heads. Please note that the Standard Length Column in the table is for STEEL shafts.So.....
Tip trim Palmer Graphite according to the above directions. Add 1/2 to 1" to the Standard Length to get the playing length for Palmer Graphite.
Club: 5 Iron
Shaft Flex: R
Tip Trim: 1"
Final playing length: 39" (Std steel length 38" plus 1")
Measure final playing length with shaft inserted in clubhead. Sole club on floor in the playing position and measure final playing length with club in the playing postion.Mark final playing length on the butt of shaft and cut to length.

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