shoptalk-digest Wednesday, 16 October 1996 Volume 01 : Number 019


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Scott" <golfscot@netcom.industry.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 18:55:53 -0400
Subject: ShopTalk: Mallet putters

Just got back from my favorite golf store checking out putters. I liked
playing the putter "FAT LADY". It is a milled face mallet with "V" sole.
Good balance and feel.
Any opinions on the mallet putter ?
Scott Fishel

------------------------------

From: greg eckenrode <gregeckenrode@sprintmail.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 03:15:30 -0700
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Mallet putters

Scott wrote:
>
> Just got back from my favorite golf store checking out putters. I liked
> playing the putter "FAT LADY". It is a milled face mallet with "V" sole.
> Good balance and feel.
> Any opinions on the mallet putter ?
> Scott FishelI don't have any experience with that particular putter, but I have just
gone back to using a mallet after playing blades for the past 24 years.
I love the feel of the mallet and the renewed confidence I get on those
long distance putts. I also have confidence in the short putts because
of the balance. No yips here.

The putter that I built is the Tour Model by Golfsmith. I highly
recommend it.

Greg Eckenrode

------------------------------

From: h7d6f3nb@coastalnet.com (Don Markward)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 21:49:37 -0400
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: WOOD HEADS

I've built several laminated wood head clubs with TT Dynamic steel shafts
but have had trouble with the bond in the hosel. I think I crimped the tips
sufficiently, had a tight fit and used plenty epoxy(again, I think).
Any ideas on why this happens or what I can do about it? I've had no
problems with my irons.
Thanks,
Don

------------------------------

From: miko@uwo.ca (D. B. Miko)
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 08:14:21 -0500
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: WOOD HEADS

Don Markward wrote:
>
> I've built several laminated wood head clubs with TT Dynamic steel
> shafts but have had trouble with the bond in the hosel.

What Kind of problems?

> I crimped the tips sufficiently, had a tight fit and used plenty
> epoxy(again, I think).

I don't "crimp the tips", or dimple shafts for wooden heads.
But, I don't see a mention of the BACK SCREW...

The back screw supplies sufficient mechanical retention to hold
the head to the shaft, EVEN if the glue bond breaks.

The back screw is ESSENTIAL on wood-woods, because wood is a living,
breathing material, it absorbs moisture and shrinks and swells at
differenty rates than the steel shaft...

ALSO no comment about the whipping...again an essential part of
the installation for wood-woods...

> Any ideas on why this happens or what I can do about it?

Send more info :{)

- --
| |

db miko
Mac Shack Golf
PCS-Class A Clubmaker
London, Ontario, CANADA



------------------------------

From: Steve Budesheim <buda@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 18:13:28 -0500
Subject: ShopTalk: Looking for pre-1992 Aldila shafts

Am looking for a few Aldila (pre-1992) regular flex "Low Torque"
graphite iron shafts. These were the 39 inch versions. Need 11 of them
but will take less if available. Anyone have any of these lying around
in inventory?

Steve Budesheim
PCS Class A #B444

------------------------------

From: drg3@juno.com (Donald R Gasler)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 1996 04:19:51 PST
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: WOOD HEADS

A question to one and all...

I have recently built myself a set of woods and irons.

XPC Plus, great set !!

The problem is that I had before time made up a 5 wood.

I went to reshaft the 5 wood to match the rest of the set (XPC Bulge
shafts)
and when we went to pull off the head we burned the finish on the XPC
head.

Where did we screw up?

By the way, the woods (1,3,5,7,9) are a great set ! Love the shafts !

Don.

------------------------------

From: djmiller@wolf.co.net (Daniel J. Miller)
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 20:25:25 -0500
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: WOOD HEADS

Don wrote:

>A question to one and all...
>I have recently built myself a set of woods and irons.
>XPC Plus, great set !!
>The problem is that I had before time made up a 5 wood.
>I went to reshaft the 5 wood to match the rest of the set (XPC Bulge
>shafts)
>and when we went to pull off the head we burned the finish on the XPC
>head.
>Where did we screw up?
>By the way, the woods (1,3,5,7,9) are a great set ! Love the shafts !
>
>Don.
>

Don - I've had some discoloration in an XPC head also. I know Golfsmith
makes a product called Blue-Away, but I've heard it's quite toxic. I used
stainless steel cleaning compound. (The paste-like stuff made for cleaning
many types of metals, and found in most hardware stores.) It takes some
rubbing, but does a pretty good job if the burn isn't too bad.

In an extreme case, I used a fine steel wool. This worked well, however, I
later bought a can of clear auto spray paint to refinish the entire head.

Hope this helps.

Dan
djm


------------------------------

From: Phil Summers <phiglo@icenet.com.au>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 08:06:32 +0800
Subject: ShopTalk: email addresses of component makers

Phil here from Perth, West Australia.

I am just getting started in clubmaking,if anyone has any email addresses of
US club component makers, tools required etc I would be glad to receive them
as I am having a bit of trouble locating component makers who are on line,
failing this I'll be faxing them next th request their catalogs, but this
starts to get a bit expensive from here.

Thanks, best regards, Phil Summers.
- -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Icenet Internet Services cyber-bumper sticker - Perth Western Australia.
- -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-



------------------------------

From: Your_name Last_name <PeteFarris@ij.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 96 20:11:49 PDT
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: WOOD HEADS

Don wrote:

>A question to one and all...
>I have recently built myself a set of woods and irons.
>XPC Plus, great set !!
>The problem is that I had before time made up a 5 wood.
>I went to reshaft the 5 wood to match the rest of the set (XPC Bulge
>shafts)
>and when we went to pull off the head we burned the finish on the
XPC
>head.
>Where did we screw up?
>By the way, the woods (1,3,5,7,9) are a great set ! Love the shafts
!
>
>Don.
>

Don - I've had some discoloration in an XPC head also. I know
Golfsmith
makes a product called Blue-Away, but I've heard it's quite toxic. I
used
stainless steel cleaning compound. (The paste-like stuff made for
cleaning
many types of metals, and found in most hardware stores.) It takes
some
rubbing, but does a pretty good job if the burn isn't too bad.

In an extreme case, I used a fine steel wool. This worked well,
however, I
later bought a can of clear auto spray paint to refinish the entire
head.

Hope this helps.

Dan
djm

Try using Bar Keepers Friend.
Cheap and works great.

Pete Farris

------------------------------

From: "Scott" <golfscot@netcom.industry.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 20:25:17 -0400
Subject: ShopTalk: Mallet Putters

Just tried the Fat Lady Swings mallet, milled face putter. Well balanced
and solid feel.
Any one use Golfsmith Jetstream putter ? Looks like the Fat Lady.
Normally use heel toe balanced, milled face putters.
Any feed back on mallets ???
Scott Fishel

------------------------------

From: John Lunsford <jluns@interserf.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 22:38:37 -0400
Subject: ShopTalk: shaft graphics

Can anyone tell me if there is a proper way to orient the graphics when
assembling clubs with graphite shafts?

------------------------------

From: Chuck West <chuckw1@airmail.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 96 22:48:08 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: shaft graphics

At 10:38 PM 10/14/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Can anyone tell me if there is a proper way to orient the graphics when
>assembling clubs with graphite shafts?
>
I have done some research into this and have found that the best answer
would be "No, there is no proper way". I have examined many graphite clubs
and have found that the majority line up the main graphics and text to line
up with the square clubhead position (straight down the shaft). However, I
have found some that put the graphics to the side and the odd one that
actually puts the graphic underneath. In the clubs that I make, I line up
the main text/graphics straight down the top of the shaft.

------------------------------

From: Chuck West <chuckw1@airmail.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 96 22:54:37 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: WOOD HEADS

At 04:19 AM 10/19/96 PST, you wrote:
>A question to one and all...
>The problem is that I had before time made up a 5 wood.
>
>I went to reshaft the 5 wood to match the rest of the set (XPC Bulge
>shafts)
>and when we went to pull off the head we burned the finish on the XPC
>head.
>
>Where did we screw up?
>
>Don.
>
What did you use for heat ? A torch or heat gun ? I used a heat gun to
remove the last XPC 2000 head. I rotated the heat around the head and did
not damage the finish. I have a metal wood head refinishing kit from
Golfsmith that should help with your problem although, I have not used it
for a discolored head. I also have a can of high gloss, clear polyurethane.
It helps to return the head to that just new look.

------------------------------

From: djmiller@wolf.co.net (Daniel J. Miller)
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 01:52:20 -0500
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: shaft graphics

You wrote:

>Can anyone tell me if there is a proper way to orient the graphics when
>assembling clubs with graphite shafts?
>

I started out installing with the graphics on the top side with the club
square. Shortly after, my brother bought a set of Titleist DCI's. They
were installed on the bottom side with the club square. If it's good enough
for Titleist, it's good enough for me. I install on the bottom side unless
the customer requests otherwise. Many shafts have a lot of graphics, and I
guess this may eliminate some distraction.

Just my opinion!

Dan
djm


------------------------------

From: Tom Lane <tlane@tlane.ma.ultranet.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 08:56:50 -0400
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: WOOD HEADS

Chuck West wrote:
>
> At 04:19 AM 10/19/96 PST, you wrote:
> >A question to one and all...
> >The problem is that I had before time made up a 5 wood.
> >
> >I went to reshaft the 5 wood to match the rest of the set (XPC Bulge
> >shafts)
> >and when we went to pull off the head we burned the finish on the XPC
> >head.
> >
> >Where did we screw up?
> >
> >Don.
> >
> What did you use for heat ? A torch or heat gun ? I used a heat gun to
> remove the last XPC 2000 head. I rotated the heat around the head and did
> not damage the finish. I have a metal wood head refinishing kit from
> Golfsmith that should help with your problem although, I have not used it
> for a discolored head. I also have a can of high gloss, clear polyurethane.
> It helps to return the head to that just new look.

I read a tip in one of the postings to use boiling water instead of
direct heat for sensitive jobs and graphite shafts.

Havn't tried it yet but sounds like it should work.

------------------------------

From: Skip Grant <sgrant@headwaters.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 12:55:39 -0700
Subject: ShopTalk: Epoxy Removal & Customs ??

Could you recommend an Epoxy solvent to clean spills and/or smears from
tools and clubheads? Solvent in Golfsmith catalogue cannot be shipped
via mail being flamable.

When components are ordered from e.g. Golfsmith and the components
arrive at my local post office, is there a way to avoid the customs
charges or is that all part of doing business?

Skip

------------------------------

From: mpace@juno.com (Morgan W Pace)
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 13:00:46 PST
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Epoxy Removal & Customs ??

Skip: I use acetone -- It works real well to clean up epoxy (before it
has completely set) and it's good for smoothing off ferrules. I think
you can buy it in most hardware or paint stores.

Good Luck mpace

On Tue, 15 Oct 1996 12:55:39 -0700 Skip Grant <sgrant@headwaters.com>
writes:
>Could you recommend an Epoxy solvent to clean spills and/or smears
>from
>tools and clubheads? Solvent in Golfsmith catalogue cannot be shipped
>via mail being flamable.
>
>When components are ordered from e.g. Golfsmith and the components
>arrive at my local post office, is there a way to avoid the customs
>charges or is that all part of doing business?
>
>Skip
>

------------------------------

From: greg eckenrode <gregeckenrode@sprintmail.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 03:35:18 -0700
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Mallet Putters

Scott wrote:
>
> Just tried the Fat Lady Swings mallet, milled face putter. Well balanced
> and solid feel.
> Any one use Golfsmith Jetstream putter ? Looks like the Fat Lady.
> Normally use heel toe balanced, milled face putters.
> Any feed back on mallets ???
> Scott FishelScott,

For the past 15 years I've been using a blade putter. I just started
using the Golfsmith Tour Model mallet in July and love it. I had a
similar putter back in the sixties and always had confidence around the
green. Long putts are a snap and with the balance of the Tour Model,
touch is not a problem on the shorter putts.

Greg Eckenrode

------------------------------

From: "John G. Bowman" <clubfitter@mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 21:20:42 +0000
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: shaft graphics

On 14 Oct 96 at 22:38, John Lunsford wrote:

> Can anyone tell me if there is a proper way to orient the graphics when
> assembling clubs with graphite shafts?
>
>

Proper? According to whom? My guess would be that if you asked most
shaft makers, they would say on the top. This would give them more
advertising. I know some golfers whom feel that the color of the tee
(which they can't even see during address) distracts them so they
only use white tees. The color of the tees doesn't distract me, however, I feel
that a lot of print on the top of the shaft does distract me somewhat. I
always put the print on the underside of the clubs for myself but I
always ask the customers what they prefer. They usually ask me what
the difference it makes and I explain "my personal" feelings about it. I
haven't had anyone want the text/graphics on the top.

Conclusion: Its more of a personal preference than a "proper" issue
IMHO.

John

------------------------------

From: miko <miko@julian.uwo.ca>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 22:22:11 +0000
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Epoxy Removal & Customs ??

Skip Grant wrote:
>
> Could you recommend an Epoxy solvent to clean spills and/or
> smears from tools and clubheads?

Isopropal Alcohol is the solvent of choice.
You can usually get this at paint stores, or the drug store.

Rubbing Alcohol often has oils and things added.
So I don't recommend it.

> When components are ordered from e.g. Golfsmith and the components
> arrive at my local post office, is there a way to avoid the customs
> charges

Yes, there are ways, but it's usually considered sumggling,
and is sorta' frowned upon by most government agencies,
and unlikely to be discussed in this forum :{)

> or is that all part of doing business?

Are you in Canada?
If so, the Post Office is the cheapest, (their brokerage charges
are by far the cheapest).


- --
| |

db miko
Mac Shack Golf
PCS-Class A Clubmaker
London, Ontario, CANADA

------------------------------

From: miko <miko@julian.uwo.ca>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 22:44:01 +0000
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: shaft graphics

John Lunsford wrote:
>
> Can anyone tell me if there is a proper way to orient the
> graphics when assembling clubs with graphite shafts?

If you've made the rounds of the golf stores you'll find
that the orientation varies.

Graphics UP;
Graphics DOWN;
Graphics to the side...

I tend to put them to the side, so everyone else
can see the name when you swing :{)

(Sometimes, the shaft manufacturers put the graphics on UpSide
down so I can't, then I put the graphics down.)

Now...
Some shaft manufacturers 'spine' their shafts. The shafts are
flexed, and rotated. The direction of the greatest stiffness is
considered the spine. Some do this as a QC check, and others go
a step further and actually centre their graphics over the spine.

So what? This is the direction that they use for flex sorting
their shafts. Aldila, I believe, does this. So their shafts are
sorted by the flex in the direction specified by the graphic.

You have to decide if you want that graded flex in the
toe-up/toe-down direction, (most typical--this is the load put on
the shaft through the down swing); or in the lag/lead direction,
(this will be the 'kick' bend in the shaft through the impact
region)...

Also there are machines on the market called "spine finders",
used to locate that direction of maximum resistance to bending.
(The fishing rod builders use these too!). These qizmos will
allow you to find the spine in a shaft, and you can then orient
the spine with the direction most important to you, (usually
Toe Up/Down). You can usually spot club sets matched with 'spined'
shafts, the graphics are oriented all different ways.

Be careful, if you see the graphics all over the place, they may
be a very well made set of clubs, or maybe put together by someone
who doesn't know what they're doin' :{)



- --
| |

db miko
Mac Shack Golf
PCS-Class A Clubmaker
London, Ontario, CANADA

------------------------------

From: "Bruce L. Sublett" <bsublett@tcac.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 09:57:55 -0500
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: shaft graphics

>miko wrote:
>Now...
>Some shaft manufacturers 'spine' their shafts. The shafts are
>flexed, and rotated. The direction of the greatest stiffness is
>considered the spine. Some do this as a QC check, and others go
>a step further and actually centre their graphics over the spine.

A quick way to find the spine in a shaft (or rod blank) is to support
the butt with one hand, place the tip on a smooth floor, then apply
enough pressure with the other hand to flex the shaft. Then roll the
tip from side to side on the floor. When the spine is on the bottom,
the shaft will "jump" slightly rather than rolling smoothly. It's
pretty easy to do with fishing rods, but golf shafts take more "feel" on
your part. The more flex you put in the shaft, the more pronounced the
jump will be.

------------------------------

From: drg3@juno.com (Donald R Gasler)
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 05:08:47 PST
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: WOOD HEADS

We used a torch, gently of course.
It seemed like it took forever.

What we ended up doing was buffing it up a little and spraying it silver
with
a little gloss. Unless you look at it up close you would never see the
difference.

I just didnt think that the finish would spoil

thanks to all !!

On Mon, 14 Oct 96 22:54:37 -0500 (CDT) Chuck West <chuckw1@airmail.net>
writes:
>At 04:19 AM 10/19/96 PST, you wrote:
>>A question to one and all...
>>The problem is that I had before time made up a 5 wood.
>>
>>I went to reshaft the 5 wood to match the rest of the set (XPC Bulge
>>shafts)
>>and when we went to pull off the head we burned the finish on the
>XPC
>>head.
>>
>>Where did we screw up?
>>
>>Don.
>>
>What did you use for heat ? A torch or heat gun ? I used a heat gun to
>remove the last XPC 2000 head. I rotated the heat around the head and
>did
>not damage the finish. I have a metal wood head refinishing kit from
>Golfsmith that should help with your problem although, I have not used
>it
>for a discolored head. I also have a can of high gloss, clear
>polyurethane.
>It helps to return the head to that just new look.
>
>

------------------------------

From: Geoff Smith <a1a05831@bc.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 17:12:20 -0700
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: email addresses of component makers

Phil Summers wrote:
>
> Phil here from Perth, West Australia.
>
> I am just getting started in clubmaking,if anyone has any email addresses of
> US club component makers, tools required etc I would be glad to receive them
> as I am having a bit of trouble locating component makers who are on line,
> failing this I'll be faxing them next th request their catalogs, but this
> starts to get a bit expensive from here.
>
> Thanks, best regards, Phil Summers.
> -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
> Icenet Internet Services cyber-bumper sticker - Perth Western Australia.
> -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
G'Day I'm a transplanted Aussie here in Vancouver. Try looking up the
following web sites and there is probably a couple of e-mail addresses
for you : www.golf.com or www.golfworks.com or www.chipmunk.com or an
e-mail address for CSG sales@csggolf.com or this one roberta@golf.com.
Hope this helps you out!!!!!

------------------------------

End of shoptalk-digest V1 #19
*****************************