shoptalk-digest Wednesday, 13 November 1996 Volume 01 : Number
025
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: SmartGolf@C9.COM
Date: 10 Nov 1996 20:01:48 EDT
Subject: ShopTalk: grips and ginty clubs
on the subject of blowing off grips, did you ever try the golfsmith
'blade' grip remover. this simple device eliminates the need for any
'needle' which could be dangerous. after a little practice I find this a
much better way to remove grips. the other thing to keep in mind, about
older grips, many of my customers don't want to save them, unless they
are special, or have just been put on.
on the subject of ginty woods, I have been trying to find a lefty
7-wood. a customer had the sole plate fly off and is now lost. it
appears to be a dead end. but low and behold I have come across a club,
and only one, a club so look a like the ginty it fooled me until I
looked at the sole plate. it was made by, I believe, northwestern, model
pro-action, and is sold by k-mart. this sole plate could be used as a
replacement for the ginty, but I can't find another one in this area.
Massachusetts.
------------------------------
From: Keith Rober <KeithR@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 96 23:20:32 -0800
Subject: ShopTalk: Tip finishing on Through-Bore Metal Woods
I would like to know what is the best and proper way to finish the tip
end of a graphite shaft and plug in a through-bore metal wood. Should I
try to finish and contour it to the bottom of the head before I glue it
or do it afterwards. Also what is the best way to contour the end of the
shaft. Any help would be very helpful
Thanks,
Keith
------------------------------
From: djmiller@wolf.co.net (Daniel J. Miller)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 00:52:09 -0600
Subject: ShopTalk: Aluminum shafts
Can anyone give me pro's and con's in regards to using aluminum shafts
rather than steel or graphite? I've never tried aluminum. I'm considering
it for a customer, due to lighter-than-steel weight and lower-than-graphite
cost.
Are they easier/harder to work with? Do they dampen vibration better than
steel? Do they last as long? Other than looks, should the customer expect
anything unique about aluminum shafts?
Thanks for your input!
Dan
djm
------------------------------
From: Tedd Childers <Tedd_Childers@ncsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 96 08:24:09 EST
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Aluminum shafts
At 12:52 AM 11/11/96 -0600, you wrote:
>Can anyone give me pro's and con's in regards to using aluminum shafts
>rather than steel or graphite? I've never tried aluminum. I'm considering
>it for a customer, due to lighter-than-steel weight and lower-than-graphite
>cost.
>
>Are they easier/harder to work with? Do they dampen vibration better
than
>steel? Do they last as long? Other than looks, should the customer
expect
>anything unique about aluminum shafts?
>
>Thanks for your input!
>
>Dan
>djm
>
>
>Dan,
I have used the Easton A70 aluminum shaft in several sets of woods I have
built and have been extremely pleased with them. My driver and 3-wood have
Easton A70 shafts which have been frequency matched to 270cpm. The weight
of the driver shaft at 44" playing length is 104g (I measured it myself
on
an analytical balance at work), which is right between the published weights
of graphite and steel. I really like the shaft because it is much more
durable than graphite, no worries about nicks and scratches. I was
interested in vibration reduction when building my clubs, so I called the
people at Winn to inquire about their grips, and they recommended the Easton
aluminum shaft. They felt it was the best shaft for reducing shock.
The wood shafts are sold in R and S flexes from Golfsmith, but I always
use
the S flex as it can be tipped to a frequency in the 260-275 range, which
will fit most customers. I have not tried the iron shafts, so I can't
comment on them. Good luck, and I hope this helps.
Tedd
------------------------------
From: Ed Reeder <Ed.Reeder@osi.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 08:13:59 -0800
Subject: ShopTalk: Reuse of graphite shafts
Two questions:
1) How do you remove an epoxied-on ferrule from a graphite shaft without
harming the shaft?
2) What should you look for when trying to determine whether to reuse a
graphite shaft?
I "scientifically" reshafted my wife's woods, based upon swing
speed and the
Dynacraft tables. However, she likes her original, too stiff, shafts
better.
Using an electric heat gun and lever to remove the original shafts, several
graphite fibers (3/16 inch wide by 1/64 deep) came loose in the hosel
area
of one shaft.
It seems like an epoxied-on ferrule would provide the protection needed.
Thanks in advance,
/Ed
------------------------------
From: John Payne <jcpayne@randomc.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 17:18:18 -0500
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Reuse of graphite shafts
Ed,
1. I do it with a sharp knife, cut off a complete strip of it and you can
usually break the rest of it loose.
2. I have a special shaft puller and since getting it I have been able to
reuse every graphite shaft that I have pulled. To test it for reuse. I take
a 5/32" bit and remove all epoxy from inside the shafts. That size
works for
most. G.Loomis and a few other require different sizes. Then I take the
shaft, put the tip on a hard surface and put a lot of side stress on the
tip. If the shaft breaks or if you hear a crunching sound(the fibers inside
are breaking) the shaft is bad and I throw it away. I wouldn't worry too
much about loosing a few fiber if the shaft passes my stress test.
Hope this helps,
John
------------------------------
From: Ed Reeder <Ed.Reeder@osi.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 15:05:26 -0800
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Reuse of graphite shafts
John,
Thanks. This is a very pramatic solution. By the way, I did the sharp
knife
trick on the ferrule, but it was really heavily epoxied. Even after carving
several strips off the ferrule there was a significant amount of crud still
on the shaft.
/Ed
At 05:18 PM 11/11/96 -0500, you wrote:
>Ed,
>
>1. I do it with a sharp knife, cut off a complete strip of it and you
can
>usually break the rest of it loose.
>
>2. I have a special shaft puller and since getting it I have been able
to
>reuse every graphite shaft that I have pulled. To test it for reuse.
I take
>a 5/32" bit and remove all epoxy from inside the shafts. That size
works for
>most. G.Loomis and a few other require different sizes. Then I take
the
>shaft, put the tip on a hard surface and put a lot of side stress on
the
>tip. If the shaft breaks or if you hear a crunching sound(the fibers
inside
>are breaking) the shaft is bad and I throw it away. I wouldn't worry
too
>much about loosing a few fiber if the shaft passes my stress test.
>
>Hope this helps,
>
>John
>
>
>
------------------------------
From: Don Landin <dglandin@mb.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 21:38:59 -0800
Subject: ShopTalk: Primer Sealer
D. B. Miko wrote:
>
> Here's my list...
>
> BESCO Component Golf 1-800-888-6551
>
> Bryan Johnston Golf Services 1-800-267-1428
> (GolfWorks)
>
> Caltek Golf Equipment 1-800-426-3673
>
> Canadian Golf Wholesalers 1-905-842-8457
>
> Comfort Concepts 1-800-269-5558
>
> Criterion 1-800-387-5331
> (Dynacraft, plus others)
> http://www.infoshare.ca/criterion/welcome.html
>
> Earl's something... 1-403-963-7703
>
> Global Golf Network 1-800-665-6654
>
> Great Shot Golf Products Inc. 1-800-265-4751
>
> Golf Option 1-800-267-5252
>
> GolfQuip 1-800-668-5603
>
> S&G Distributing Co 1-613-549-5557I am refinishing a wooden
putter and I've run out of the primer sealer
that (according to Golfsmith) has to be sprayed on after the stain and
before applying the polyurethane. Does anyone know a Canadian supplier
that can deliver quickly. Better still, does anyone know of a substitute
that can be purchased from a paint store? I know I can get it from
Golfsmith but it takes too long and it's far too expensive without
including it in a larger order to offset shipping, customs and postal
charges.
------------------------------
From: JThomp9563@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 22:54:46 -0500
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Aluminum shafts
In a message dated 96-11-11 08:22:53 EST, you write:
<< Dan,
I have used the Easton A70 aluminum shaft in several sets of woods I have
built and have been extremely pleased with them. My driver and 3-wood
have
Easton A70 shafts which have been frequency matched to 270cpm. The weight
of the driver shaft at 44" playing length is 104g (I measured it myself
on
an analytical balance at work), which is right between the published weights
of graphite and steel. I really like the shaft because it is much more
durable than graphite, no worries about nicks and scratches. I was
interested in vibration reduction when building my clubs, so I called the
people at Winn to inquire about their grips, and they recommended the Easton
aluminum shaft. They felt it was the best shaft for reducing shock.
The wood shafts are sold in R and S flexes from Golfsmith, but I always
use
the S flex as it can be tipped to a frequency in the 260-275 range, which
will fit most customers. I have not tried the iron shafts, so I can't
comment on them. Good luck, and I hope this helps.
Tedd
>>
Tedd (and all other aluminum shaft fans),
I have also had good success with the Easton A70 in woods only, both
commercially and personally. People really seem to like the design, and
they
like the affordability and feel. There is only one problem: Easton has
vertically dis-integrated, decided to disband their golf project, and has
quit making these excellent shafts. My suggestion is to buy all you can
afford, if indeed you like them.
Jeff T.
------------------------------
From: mail.compuserve.com@Arl-Mail-Svc-1.compuserve.com
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 18:46:53 +0000
Subject: ShopTalk: 1001 FREE Places to Promote Your Site!
Strut Your Stuff!
1001 FREE Places to Promote Your Web Site!
http://www.strutyourstuff.com
------------------------------
From: Lloyd Peppard <peppardl@post.QueensU.CA>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 08:06:09 -0500
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Primer Sealer
>I am refinishing a wooden putter and I've run out of the primer sealer
>that (according to Golfsmith) has to be sprayed on after the stain and
>before applying the polyurethane. Does anyone know a Canadian supplier
>that can deliver quickly. Better still, does anyone know of a substitute
>that can be purchased from a paint store? I know I can get it from
>Golfsmith but it takes too long and it's far too expensive without
>including it in a larger order to offset shipping, customs and postal
>charges.
>
I have got spray primer sealer from Criterion Golf in Nepean. One day
shipping to me near Kingston. I haven't seen this product at paint stores
but haven't looked at the big specialty places.
Lloyd Peppard
Club Craft Golf
(\ /) Lloyd Peppard
/ ~ \~~~ Electrical and Computer Engineering
\ O \~~~ Queen's University
/ / \~~~ Kingston, Ont. Canada
/ _ /\ ~~~~ (613) 545-6842
O_/ \ peppardl@post.queensu.ca
http://http.ee.queensu.ca:8000/www/dept/lep/le
p.html
------------------------------
From: "Rezabek, Douglas K" <dkrezabe@ingr.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 08:22:07 -0600
Subject: ShopTalk: Clubmaking Schools
I am planning on taking a "general" club making class, and I am
looking
for opinions/experiences/recommendations on where I should go. I have
been doing assembly and repair as a hobby for a little less than a year,
and now I want to get a broadbased level of formalized training.
Here are some of the potential schools that I am looking at:
GolfWorks - Fitting, Assembly, and Repair School
GolfWorks - The Total Golf Club Repair School
Golfsmith - The Complete Clubmakers Training Program
Dynacraft - Complete Clubmaking / Introduction to Clubfitting
Any thoughts on these or other schools is greatly appreciated.
Doug Rezabek
Huntsville, AL
------------------------------
From: bolson@promega.com
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 96 09:30:33 CST
Subject: ShopTalk: Components Store:
I am looking to talk to someone out there that has a clubmaking, accessory,
and
COMPONENT retail store. It would provide custom clubs, accessories, and
all the
supplies necessary to make custom clubs (shafts, heads, etc. etc.)
I am interested in starting such a store, but I want to talk first w/those
that
have such a business, as well as visit a few locations.
I understand there are many component catalogs that you can order directly
from,
but I believe, just as many of my colleagues, that there is something to
be said
by looking before you buy.
The angle of the store would be on "clubmaking" and "custom
clubs", rather than
just the later.
Because I am in WI, I would also like to expand someday to a driving range
dome,
but $MONEY$ seems to be at issue there. :) :(
Anyway, if you have such a store, I would like to seriously talk to you.
EMAIL ME!
Thanks!
brian...
bolson@promega.com
------------------------------
From: Raj Rajan <rajan@autoa.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 11:18:42 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Components Store:
On Tue, 12 Nov 1996 bolson@promega.com wrote:
> I am looking to talk to someone out there that has a clubmaking, accessory,
and
> COMPONENT retail store. It would provide custom clubs, accessories,
and all the
> supplies necessary to make custom clubs (shafts, heads, etc. etc.)
>
> I am interested in starting such a store, but I want to talk first
w/those that
> have such a business, as well as visit a few locations.
>
> I understand there are many component catalogs that you can order directly
from,
> but I believe, just as many of my colleagues, that there is something
to be said
> by looking before you buy.
>
> The angle of the store would be on "clubmaking" and "custom
clubs", rather than
> just the later.
>
> Because I am in WI, I would also like to expand someday to a driving
range dome,
> but $MONEY$ seems to be at issue there. :) :(
>
> Anyway, if you have such a store, I would like to seriously talk to
you.
>
> EMAIL ME!
>
> Thanks!
> brian...
> bolson@promega.com
>
Brian,
Just for your information, Golfsmith has some plans of opening their
own outlets in various parts of the country. Carl Paul (owner of Golfsmith)
had written an article to that effect, in their Clubmaker magazine just
a
couple of months ago. Perhaps, you may be able to work with them if they
are so inclined.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Raj
__________________________________________________________________
| |
| |
| MMMMMMM MMMMMMM |
| Raj V. Rajan MMMMMMM MMMMMMM |
| Automated Analysis Corp. MMMMM MM MM MMMMM |
| 2805 S. Industrial Suite 100 MMMMM MM MM MMMMM |
| Ann Arbor, MI 48105 MMMMM MMM MMMMM |
| MMMMMMM M MMMMMMM |
| |
| E-Mail: rajan@autoa.com Go Blue! |
|__________________________________________________________________|
------------------------------
From: "Stephen C. Reynolds" <sreynol1@flash.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 10:29:53 -0600
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Clubmaking Schools
Rezabek, Douglas K wrote:
>
> I am planning on taking a "general" club making class, and
I am looking
> for opinions/experiences/recommendations on where I should go. I have
> been doing assembly and repair as a hobby for a little less than a
year,
> and now I want to get a broadbased level of formalized training.
>
> Here are some of the potential schools that I am looking at:
>
> GolfWorks - Fitting, Assembly, and Repair School
>
> GolfWorks - The Total Golf Club Repair School
>
> Golfsmith - The Complete Clubmakers Training Program
>
> Dynacraft - Complete Clubmaking / Introduction to Clubfitting
>
> Any thoughts on these or other schools is greatly appreciated.
>
> Doug Rezabek
> Huntsville, AL
Doug,
I went to Golfsmith several years ago and was very satisfied.
I think you will find that each school you have listed has top quality
instructors with years of experience but Texas this time of the year has
great weather and Austin is great to visit.
Steve
------------------------------
From: cgdick <cgdick@freenet.calgary.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 12:21:27 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Clubmaking Schools
On Tue, 12 Nov 1996, Rezabek, Douglas K wrote:
>
> I am planning on taking a "general" club making class, and
I am looking
> for opinions/experiences/recommendations on where I should go. I have
> been doing assembly and repair as a hobby for a little less than a
year,
> and now I want to get a broadbased level of formalized training.
(GW, GS, and DCraft mentionned)
>
> Any thoughts on these or other schools is greatly appreciated.
There is also Caltek Golf & Training in Calgary, 1-800-426-3673, or
have a
look at their www.goldguide.com/caltek-golf/ for details..
Never more than 3 students with Certified Instructor, 4 days complete, for
$C575. + 7% tax. That is Cdn $, at about $0.75 US.
Mind you, there is travel, and you need warm clothing up here in the ice
and snow! Vacancies in the New Year, perhaps in December '96. I'm in
before the end of this month.
Colin
------------------------------
From: Pete Farris <PeteFarris@ij.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 96 17:11:52 PST
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Clubmaking Schools
Doug,
Ever think about coming to Florida? Great school down this way.
Get in touch with Mike Bowers @ Professional Golf Club Repairmens'
Association @813-733-9241, 813-787-6890, or 1-800-746-8493.
Applications taken on first come basis, school is limited to 4 students.
Good luck,
Pete Farris
------------------------------
From: YMRN29A@prodigy.com (MR WILLIAM F ABBOTT)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 22:35:39, -0500
Subject: ShopTalk: Clubmaking Schools
Doug,
In April I Attended Golfsmiths Complete Clubmakers Training Program,
followed immediately by the Advanced Clubfitting Program.
I was very pleased with both programs, the instructors are hands on
type guys, the facilities are second to none, they make you feel
right at home.
It was important, as well as convenient to attend both schools, for
two reasons. First was the travel aspect, and secondly the
importance of taking the GCA
certification exam, you will need advanced education if you would
like to get certified as an GCA Advanced, Professional, Clubmaker.
You can take the exam, anytime
after you pass you will be qualified as a GCA certified Clubmaker,
you will need some kind of advanced education to get the Advanced and
Professional qualifications though.
Hope this helps, I was in the same situation as you @1 1/2 years
ago!
Bill Abbott
Ace of Clubs
Mashpee, MA
------------------------------
From: JackHeesaker <heesak19@mail.idt.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 01:55:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Components Store:
At 09:30 AM 11/12/96 CST, you wrote:
>I am looking to talk to someone out there that has a clubmaking, accessory,
and
>COMPONENT retail store. It would provide custom clubs, accessories,
and
all the
>supplies necessary to make custom clubs (shafts, heads, etc. etc.)
>
Brian...
Pat Ryan Golf in Minneapolis is just such a store. I'm not connected in
any
way, except to buy supplies on an occasional basis. Don't know if they
have
any internet connection, but you can reach them at:
Pat Ryan Golf
6536 West Lake Street
St. Louis Park, MN 55426
Phone 612 925 9111
They do repair, custom club fitting, and sell components and supplies.
Hope this is close enough to you to help.
Jack Heesaker
------------------------------
From: mpace@juno.com (Morgan W Pace)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 09:37:37 PST
Subject: ShopTalk: Shaft alignment in a loose hosel
I just started to put a graphite shaft in a metal driver head but noticed
that the tip of the shaft is a undersize or the hosel is a oversize
(maybe a little of both) but the fit is not as snug as it should be even
before prepping the tip.
The golfsmith catalog lists "shafting beads" for such problems
but since
I don't have any beads on hand I would like to find something suitable
for the purpose without waiting on an order from Golfsmith. Any
suggestions for suitable spacers would be appreciated.
Mpace
------------------------------
From: TStineman@aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 14:33:36 -0500
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Components Store:
I will pass on the issue of Components Store since I don't know how you
can
compete with the myriad of companies in the component business. It seems
to
me that the business is in Custom Clubs not Components.
Regards the Driving Range Dome, there is one in Oakville, Ontario (outside
Toronto) that they would probably sell. It has been sold 3 times in 4 years.
Seems that from January to reasonable weather it is packed on every weekend
(2 hr waits). They charge $20/hour during peak times. Once the weather
warms up, the crowd moves outside and to cheaper areas. Heating/Cooling
a
dome (even a little) is no small business. The golf season in Toronto is
short, but it seems that the indoor driving range is too.
------------------------------
From: "Scott" <golfscot@netcom.industry.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 21:06:06 -0500
Subject: ShopTalk: Junior set sizing
Making some golf sets for kids 7 - 10 years old. Finger to floor
measurements are 18 inches on average. Should I cut shafts to proper lenght
for playing now or make the clubs longer for future play ? Using true
temper comet shafts for light weight and low bend point. The way kids grow
I would be re-shafting every season till full grown.
Scott Fishel
------------------------------
End of shoptalk-digest V1 #25
*****************************