shoptalk-digest Tuesday, 24 September 1996 Volume 01 : Number
013
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "John G. Bowman" <bowman@blueridge-ef.saic.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 12:46:18 -0400
Subject: ShopTalk: Club Head Squaring
I hope this doesn't sound too dumb, but here it goes.
When installing grips that have the hand alignment marks, how does
one tell whether or not the clubface is suppose to be square or closed?
Can I plumb the clubface and install the grip with the alignment marks
top-dead-center?
Thanks much for the help.
John G. Bowman
------------------------------
From: phillips@itecnmi.com (Jim Phillips)
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 18:27:58 +1000
Subject: ShopTalk: Re-Shafting
I want to replace my True Temper Dynamic Gold R300 Steel shafts with
Stratus Sensicore shafts and move up to a "S" flex. I will change
both
my metal woods and irons. How will this effect the static and
swingweight of my clubs and what do I do about it?
Also, I want The GolfWorks to cut the shafts for me. My driver (Lynx
Boom-Boom) is 43-1/2" and my 3- and 5-wood (also Boom-Booms) step down
3/4" respectively. My 3-iron (DCI+ Gold Oversize) is 38-3/4",
with each
iron stepping 1/2" down to the 9 iron. Pitching wedge is 35-1/2",
and
the sand wedge is 35-1/4". How do I determine the cut shaft length
when
ordering? Do I need to consider the depth of the hosel in the clubs
when calculating cut length?
Thanks,
Jim Phillips
phillips@itecnmi.com
------------------------------
From: clubmake@ite.net (Ted Jr. Vida)
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 22:51:27 -0700
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Re-Shafting
Jim Phillips wrote:
>
> I want to replace my True Temper Dynamic Gold R300 Steel shafts with
> Stratus Sensicore shafts and move up to a "S" flex. I will
change both
> my metal woods and irons. How will this effect the static and
> swingweight of my clubs and what do I do about it?
>
> Also, I want The GolfWorks to cut the shafts for me. My driver (Lynx
> Boom-Boom) is 43-1/2" and my 3- and 5-wood (also Boom-Booms) step
down
> 3/4" respectively. My 3-iron (DCI+ Gold Oversize) is 38-3/4",
with each
> iron stepping 1/2" down to the 9 iron. Pitching wedge is 35-1/2",
and
> the sand wedge is 35-1/4". How do I determine the cut shaft length
when
> ordering? Do I need to consider the depth of the hosel in the clubs
> when calculating cut length?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Phillips
> phillips@itecnmi.com
Jim,
The Dynamic Gold S shafts weigh 124g/wood and 127g/iron; and, the
Stratus....115g and 110g respectively (all raw lenghts). The difference
in weights will produce a lighter static weight with the Stratus and the
swingweight will probably drop.
When you order pre-cut shafts, it would be hard to determine the proper
length just by hosel depth (specially on the woods) unless you can take
out the original shaft and grip and measure the shaft itself...because
there is still that gap between the tip of the shaft inside the hosel and
the bottom (sometimes imaginary line) of the club that gives you the club
lie reading. Very few clubs have the same sole angles too.
Hope this helps you out.
It would be easier to cut it to length yourself. But don't use a
tubing cutter on the Stratus shaft. This new type of steel is better
cut with a hacksaw or abrasive wheel on a grinding motor.
------------------------------
From: clubmake@ite.net (Ted Jr. Vida)
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 22:57:12 -0700
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Grafalloy ProLite Shaft
Daniel J. Miller wrote:
>
> About 3 weeks ago I assembled a Golfsmith Titanium 260 head with the
> Grafalloy ProLite ultra-lite shaft for a friend. (The 2nd club I've
done
> with these components.) This past weekend, after about 4 rounds, the
shaft
> broke off at the hosel during a swing that hit only ball. (Not the
ground!)
>
> Has anyone else had this shaft break? Golfsmith is sending a replacement,
> but I'm somewhat nervous about it. I can imagine how my customer will
feel
> each time he swings it!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan
>
> PS: I did additional coning and deburring of the hosel before assembly.
> Golfsmith said that they've seen this with all brands of ultralite
shafts on
> occasion.
> djm
I'm curious to know what you used to prep the shaft with.
Ted Vida, Jr.
clubmake@ite.net
------------------------------
From: "Vince Burkis" <Celtics72@msn.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 96 14:24:47 UT
Subject: RE: ShopTalk: Grafalloy ProLite Shaft
I had a similar problem with the same shaft. After a couple of rounds,
the
shaft literally split apart just a few inches above the hozel.
------------------------------
From: CUSTOMPC22@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 15:05:24 -0400
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Titanium drivers
IT WAS ME..AND IT WAS A MISTAKE. RELAX!!
------------------------------
From: MSSmia@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 16:04:16 -0400
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Re-Shafting
Jim-
First of all, don't expect your shafts from Golfworks real soon. Mine took
forever. For what it's worth I re-shafted my clubs with Stratus/Sensicore
and
I like them very well. You'll have to remove the heads to check cut shaft
lengths...but you might want to do a test before you re-shaft your whole
set,
because as another reply to your msg says, swingweight etc... will change.
I used a Dremel tool to cut shafts and it worked well. Good luck.
------------------------------
From: erodrigu@moose.uvm.edu (Edgar Rodriguez)
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 16:26:40 -0400
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Re-Shafting
Hi Please take me off of your list pleast. Thank
You.
Edgar
------------------------------
From: robert.see@toltbbs.com
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 96 17:19:38 -0400
Subject: ShopTalk: bore-thru & drying
two questions:
1. I have a set of iron heads that appear to be bore-tru, but the manufacturer
has plugged the bottoms with some black rubber compound. There is a small
mostly cosmetic defect in the filling on the bottom of one of the heads.
Any
suggestions on what I can use to fill this small crevice. Right now I'm
planning to use some GE black silicon sealant, but I don't think that it's
really similar to the stuff already in there.
2. What is the best position to leave the club in while the epoxy cures?
I
figure that if i could put a clamp on the hosel to hold the club such that
the
shaft is verticle that would minimize any shifting b/w the two while curing.
Does it matter? Can I just lay the club on its side or stand it on one
end?
thanks,
Robert
PS anyone have any favorite wedges? I like classic blade designs myself,
but
I'm open to suggestions.
------------------------------
From: "Scott" <golfscot@netcom.industry.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 10:32:25 -0400
Subject: Re: ShopTalk:Mercury Titan
Scott
CSG sells them. They are very, very good bertha and great bertha clones.
They are listed in INfoseek as CSG Golf components, or Phone # 18005975241.
Have you seen a supplier of Tommy Mann heads, Bumber or Hunter and Snakes
?
Thanks
Scott Fishel
- ----------
> From: Scott Bierly <bierly@ERA.COM>
> To: 'ShopTalk' <ShopTalk@mail.msen.com>
> Subject: FW: ShopTalk:Mercury Titan
> Date: Wednesday, September 18, 1996 7:08 AM
>
>
> Where do you buy Mercury clubheads? I believe I have seen them
> once...are these the good "warbird" sole clone?
>
> ----------
> From: jhm[SMTP:jhm@ww1.msen.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 1996 10:55 PM
> To: ShopTalk
> Subject: ShopTalk:Mercury Titan
>
> I have been using Mercury II club componets with some good luck.
> They recently came out with a titanium driver head,matching it with
> a ultra light shaft. Has anyone tried this club and if so what shaft
> combinations have you had luck with?
>
------------------------------
From: djmiller@wolf.co.net (Daniel J. Miller)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 00:35:20 -0500
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Grafalloy ProLite Shaft
>Daniel J. Miller wrote:
>>
>> About 3 weeks ago I assembled a Golfsmith Titanium 260 head with
the
>> Grafalloy ProLite ultra-lite shaft for a friend. (The 2nd club
I've done
>> with these components.) This past weekend, after about 4 rounds,
the shaft
>> broke off at the hosel during a swing that hit only ball. (Not
the ground!)
>>
>> Has anyone else had this shaft break? Golfsmith is sending a replacement,
>> but I'm somewhat nervous about it. I can imagine how my customer
will feel
>> each time he swings it!
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Dan
>>
>> PS: I did additional coning and deburring of the hosel before
assembly.
>> Golfsmith said that they've seen this with all brands of ultralite
shafts on
>> occasion.
>> djm
>
>
>I'm curious to know what you used to prep the shaft with.
>
>Ted Vida, Jr.
>clubmake@ite.net
>
>
Ted, I use a fine grit plumbers sanding cloth...
djm
------------------------------
From: "Scott" <golfscot@netcom.industry.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 23:47:53 -0400
Subject: ShopTalk: Club Heads
I recently purchased, in a retail golf shop, King Snake head iron #5 and
Tommy Mann Bumber and Hunter heads #5.
Does any one know who supplies these as components, e-mail or by catalog
?
Thanks,
Scott Fishel
------------------------------
From: "Hasenzahl, Chris" <hasenzahl@strasys.mdc.com>
Date: 20 Sep 1996 15:16:18 -0800
Subject: RE: ShopTalk: bore-thru & drying
three answers:
1. Golfsmith and Golfworks sell those plugs for those irons which have the
bore
through hole in them. I think they come in red or black. If you only have
one
club to fix, I gues you could simply fill the area with epoxy and paint
it
over.
2. I have made dozens of sets of irons and scores of woods (mostly metal
and
some persimmon) and I have always stood the clubs in a vertical position
as the
epoxy cures. I've never had a problem. I've recently read that a titanium
head
should be kept in a horizontal position to keep the epoxy from dripping
into
the inside of the foamless head.
3. I also prefer the more classic designs, so I chose the Dynacraft three
wedge
system a couple of years ago. I'm pretty sure they still carry them. I've
had
good success with them and like the look.
Hope this helps,
Chris in Dove Canyon, CA
_______________________________________________________________________________
From: ShopTalk@conch.aa.msen.com on Thu, Sep 19, 1996 2:40 PM
Subject: ShopTalk: bore-thru & drying
To: shoptalk@conch.aa.msen.com
two questions:
1. I have a set of iron heads that appear to be bore-tru, but the manufacturer
has plugged the bottoms with some black rubber compound. There is a small
mostly cosmetic defect in the filling on the bottom of one of the heads.
Any
suggestions on what I can use to fill this small crevice. Right now I'm
planning to use some GE black silicon sealant, but I don't think that it's
really similar to the stuff already in there.
2. What is the best position to leave the club in while the epoxy cures?
I
figure that if i could put a clamp on the hosel to hold the club such that
the
shaft is verticle that would minimize any shifting b/w the two while curing.
Does it matter? Can I just lay the club on its side or stand it on one
end?
thanks,
Robert
PS anyone have any favorite wedges? I like classic blade designs myself,
but
I'm open to suggestions.
------------------------------
From: Steve Kinley <skinl19@idt.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 20:40:10 -0700
Subject: ShopTalk: Killer Bee specs
Does anyone have info on Killer Bee specs? I finally used one yesterday
at the range. After almost missing on first swing I started hitting it
well. I would like to try to make something similar except with a
titanium head. Also, suggestions on shafts? I currently use a Harrison
pro 3.5 at 45" with a titanium head at d4 swingweight.
------------------------------
From: erodrigu@moose.uvm.edu (Edgar Rodriguez)
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 23:23:21 -0400
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Killer Bee specs
Please take me off of your list. Thank you.
Edgar
------------------------------
From: clubmake@ite.net (Ted Jr. Vida)
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 22:52:08 -0700
Subject: ShopTalk: Power Built Forged Citation Blades
Does anyone know where and how I can get the 7 and 8 irons, or how to
contact the maker? A friend gave me a set of these irons but they were
missing those two clubs. Just the heads will do as I plan to re-shaft
them.
Thanks,
Ted Vida, Jr.
clubmake@ite.net
------------------------------
From: mpace@juno.com (Morgan W Pace)
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 10:40:22 PST
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Power Built Forged Citation Blades
Jon's Golf Shop 1782 Austin Highway in San Antonio, Zip 78218, phone 210
821 6207 appears to be a good source for singles and sets of used clubs.
I went in for a visit a couple of weeks ago and was impressed the inventory.
I did not have much time so I did not get a feel for their pricing.
Good luck
mpace
On Sun, 22 Sep 1996 22:52:08 -0700 clubmake@ite.net (Ted Jr. Vida)
writes:
>Does anyone know where and how I can get the 7 and 8 irons, or how to
>contact the maker? A friend gave me a set of these irons but they
>were
>missing those two clubs. Just the heads will do as I plan to re-shaft
>them.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ted Vida, Jr.
>clubmake@ite.net
>
------------------------------
From: Bluegill12@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 16:59:00 -0400
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: bore-thru & drying
oops!
------------------------------
From: Paul%CWOCMHS.CWOC@smtpgwy.des.state.mn.us
Date: 22 Sep 96 16:40:47 CDT
Subject: ShopTalk: Cleveland Classic
I'm looking for a Cleveland Classic 9-iron (head only is fine). It
is a "Double Sole, Tour Forged, Custom Grind III" Does anyone
know
where to look for older club heads?
Also, I'm looking for some personal 'starter tips' that you may have
found during your club making. A couple "do's & dont's" that
I might
avoid while building my first set.
You can respond to me on this discussion list or in private if you
think it more appropriate.
Thanks,
Paul
paul%cwocmhs@smtpgwy.des.state.mn.us
------------------------------
From: Joakim Thrane <Joakim.Thrane@bebslint.origin.nl>
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 11:48:57 -0700
Subject: ShopTalk: When building a 6, 7, 8 wood...
I am thinking of building a utility wood. My aim being to get the ball
easier out of roughs etc compared to my 4-5 iron (185-200 yards).
What specs (loft and length, head weight)) should I be looking for if I
want to build this type if club and keeping the above distance. ?
I am thinking of using the dynalite shaft (110grams I believe) tip trimed
to match my 3 wood (16 degree, D1).
Suggestions are welcome.
Does the Copperhead only come as a driver or are there 3, 5, 7, woods ?
Regards from Belgium
Joakim
------------------------------
From: clubmake@ite.net (Ted Jr. Vida)
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 20:01:52 -0700
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Power Built Forged Citation Blades
Morgan W Pace wrote:
>
> Jon's Golf Shop 1782 Austin Highway in San Antonio, Zip 78218, phone
210 821 6207 appears to be a good source for singles and sets of used
clubs.
> I went in for a visit a couple of weeks ago and was impressed the inventory.
I did not have much time so I did not get a feel for their
pricing.
> Good luck
>
> mpace
>
> On Sun, 22 Sep 1996 22:52:08 -0700 clubmake@ite.net (Ted Jr. Vida)
> writes:
> >Does anyone know where and how I can get the 7 and 8 irons, or
how to
> >contact the maker? A friend gave me a set of these irons but they
> >were
> >missing those two clubs. Just the heads will do as I plan to re-shaft
> >them.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Ted Vida, Jr.
> >clubmake@ite.net
> >
Got your message. Thanks, I'll give them a call.
Ted
------------------------------
From: "Scott" <golfscot@netcom.industry.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 06:40:03 -0400
Subject: ShopTalk: Club Heads Catalog:
Steve,
My address is:
Scott Fishel
88 Seley Drive
N. Babylon, NY 11703
e-mail: golfscot@netcom.industry.net
Note 1 t in Scot for e-mail address.
Thanks for catalog:
Scott
------------------------------
From: "Scott" <golfscot@netcom.industry.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 19:26:41 -0400
Subject: ShopTalk: Test
Just testing still on subscription
------------------------------
From: "Scott" <golfscot@netcom.industry.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 19:40:20 -0400
Subject: ShopTalk: Shaft epoxy removal
What is the best way to remove epoxy from shaft tips after the head is
removed and the old epoxy re-hardened ? I thought a heat gun all over again
on the shaft.
------------------------------
From: djmiller@wolf.co.net (Daniel J. Miller)
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 21:17:31 -0500
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Shaft epoxy removal
You wrote:
>What is the best way to remove epoxy from shaft tips after the head
is
>removed and the old epoxy re-hardened ? I thought a heat gun all over
again
>on the shaft.
>
>
I usually use plumbers sanding cloth to finish the shaft tip. I also use
it
to remove old hardened epoxy. (I'm careful to not take too much off of
the
tip of graphite shafts, though!)
Also, in case you're interested, I've found a pretty good way to remove
the
epoxy from the inside of the hosel. I use an old piece of steel shaft in
my
drill. As it spins, it heats and cuts through old hardened epoxy.
Hope this helps.
Dan
djm
------------------------------
From: John Lunsford <jluns@interserf.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 21:35:30 -0400
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: When building a 6, 7, 8 wood...
At 11:48 AM 9/23/96 -0700, you wrote:
>I am thinking of building a utility wood. My aim being to get the ball
>easier out of roughs etc compared to my 4-5 iron (185-200 yards).
>What specs (loft and length, head weight)) should I be looking for if
I
>want to build this type if club and keeping the above distance. ?
>I am thinking of using the dynalite shaft (110grams I believe) tip trimed
>to match my 3 wood (16 degree, D1).
>
>Suggestions are welcome.
>
>Does the Copperhead only come as a driver or are there 3, 5, 7, woods
?
>
>Regards from Belgium
>Joakim
Not sure about 7 wood, but I just completed a set of Copperhead 1,3, and
5
with matching Copperhead graphite shafts and grips. A very handsome set.
>
>
------------------------------
From: Joakim Thrane <Joakim.Thrane@bebslint.origin.nl>
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 12:02:22 -0700
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: When building a 6, 7, 8 wood...
John Lunsford wrote:
>
> At 11:48 AM 9/23/96 -0700, you wrote:
> >I am thinking of building a utility wood. My aim being to get the
ball
> >easier out of roughs etc compared to my 4-5 iron (185-200 yards).
> >What specs (loft and length, head weight)) should I be looking
for if I
> >want to build this type if club and keeping the above distance.
?
> >I am thinking of using the dynalite shaft (110grams I believe)
tip trimed
> >to match my 3 wood (16 degree, D1).
> >
> >Suggestions are welcome.
> >
> >Does the Copperhead only come as a driver or are there 3, 5, 7,
woods ?
> >
> >Regards from Belgium
> >Joakim
>
> Not sure about 7 wood, but I just completed a set of Copperhead 1,3,
and 5
> with matching Copperhead graphite shafts and grips. A very handsome
set.
>
> >
> >What is the loft of the 5 wood ?
------------------------------
End of shoptalk-digest V1 #13
*****************************