Here is a collection of RK's wisdom from a
variety of
posts that go back into 1999. I've been hoarding them
for some time. I made a few edits to some of the messages.
I'm sure I've missed some gems. What a wealth
of knowledge
shared by a very nice man!
Ed Reeder
------------------------------------------------------------------
D R I L L P R E S S E S
------------------------------------------------------------------
I've been telling everyone that will listen to buy a drill press
that
has a LOW rpm, less than 200 rpm. You can always go faster if
you
need to but if your presses low end is in the 300's that's the
best
your going to get.
------------------------------------------------------------------
At the show we were all standing around getting into every bodies
way
when someone started talking about using their drill press and
having a
drill get stuck in the work piece. If this happens to you never,
and I
mean never, try and raise the spindle up to clear the condition.
Keep
as much pressure as you can on the spindle and keep the work piece
in
contact with the drill table at ALL times. When this happens,
just push
down on the handle as hard as you can and reach up and turn off
the
machine. Again don't try and clear the obstruction.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Actually any drill press that's close to 200 rpm's will work.
I just try and make everyone aware that with SS too high of a
speed,
over 500 rpm, can hurt you. With SS if you are running at a high
speed and you let the drill rest in one spot a little too long
the
work piece will "work harden" on you and then you'll
have a problem
getting through the hard spot. With a slower speed the chance
of
this happening will be greatly reduced. On SS I usually run at
about 375 when drilling and 175 when reaming. Also with Ti, high
speed, unless it's a VERY high speed 2500 rpm+, will "work
harden"
the work piece at speeds over 300 rpm. The low end of mine is
175,
about the only time I go that slow is when I'm reaming. And yes
the rule of thumb for reaming is, half the speed / twice the feed.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Which size of reamer do you normally use for
changing a tapered iron hosel
to a standard parallel one?
------------------------------------------------------------------
Since a taper tipped hosel bore falls well
w/in the 1/32 , .03125 , for
reaming (.354 Standard smallest dia on a tapered tip) minus .03125
= .38525,
I would just use a .370 if the new shaft tip is that small. But
since the
nearest standard size is .375 or 3/8" I would most likely
use that. The
main thing to remember when reaming is with a reamer you can "VERY"
easily
take .0156 per side.
------------------------------------------------------------------
R E A M E R S, R E A M I N G, A N D D R I L L I N G
------------------------------------------------------------------
Ro, STOP do not pass go or you'll go to jail. Since you don't
have
one of my fine drill fixtures you have to do it the very hard
way.
Ro never and I mean NEVER try and drill anything out on club heads
with a hand drill. I the first rule to screwing things up is by
using a hand drill. Too high of a speed, not enough pressure.
Plus you MUST USE A REAMER when drilling out tapered bores.
Cobalt, Carbide drills for our line of work is over kill. The
SS
that we work with is very mild compared to other higher chrome
stainless's. Complete waste of money. I have never in all my tool
making life ever used a cobalt drill, used a lot of carbide for
drilling
REAL hard metals but never a cobalt. Cobalt lathe tools is a whole
other matter.
------------------------------------------------------------------
To make your reamers last longer the rule of thumb is 1/2 the
SPEED
and TWICE THE FEED that you would normally use on a drill bit.
.375 drill bit should be run @ 40 SFM or 410 RPM with a chip load
of .006 per rev. So a .375 reamer should be run at .205 RPM with
a chip load of .012 per rev. In other words when reaming don't
let
the reamer ride in the hole PUSH IT THRU. When either drilling
or
reaming DON"T LET THE DRILL BIT OR REAMER RIDE IN THE HOLE.
Club
heads are made of SS and steel shafts are made from a flame hardening
material. So any time you allow a bit or reamer too "RIDE"
in the
hole the material will WORK HARDEN and you will have one hell
of a
time getting thru the hardened section.
------------------------------------------------------------------
I knew some day you would finally admit it and I was here to see
it.
Now as to the web of the drill. When looking at the drill head
on
you will see the tip and the two cutting edges. Well the web is
the
thing holding all that together. By thinning out the web you reduce
its thickness thereby reducing heat build up. What you do is grind
a notch on the back side of each of the cuttings lands and thin
the
tip cutting portion. You kind of make a little cutting area behind
the tip that allows the tip to also do a very little cutting.
You
must remember that the closer you get to the center of the drill
the slower that area is turning so in essence you are pushing
the
center section through the work piece. So by thing out the web
you
create more cutting area in the center. I don't know how else
to
explain it at this time.
RK
Al Taylor wrote:
> Ok guys, I'll be the dummy. What the hell
is the web of the drill bit,
> and how the heck do I thin it?
> Al
>
> Richard Kennedy wrote:
>
> > William C Swingler wrote:
> > "Be sure to thin the web of the drill bit to effect
easier cutting not
> > to mention to keep the bit very sharp"
> >
> > This also reduces the heat build up in the tip area,
very important when
> > drilling SS and Ti.
> >
> > RK
> >
> > >
> > > The last few posts on drilling tough materials
was very informative,
> > > including slow rpm's, steady pressure to avoid
work hardening and the
> > > use of lubricating oils. One area that is often
overlooked in drilling
> > > is the angle of the drill point. For normal metal
drilling 59* on each
> > > or 118* overall is recommended. If you attempt
heat treated materials
> > > the drill point should be flatter or 130* included,
the preferred angle
> > > for stainless steel and tougher metals is 140*
included. Be sure to
> > > thin the web of the drill bit to effect easier
cutting not to mention to
> > > keep the bit very sharp.
------------------------------------------------------------------
I also buy from MSC when Wholesale Tool's out of the item I want.
I just purchased some .751 reamers from them, coast $31.00. In
the past bought the same item from Wholesale Tool, cost $15.00.
Big cost difference between the two. One thing I like about MSC
is
next day delivery at no extra cost. But for where I live with
Wholesale Tool I get the same service, unless they have a back
order
something.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Bill, since we're always starting out with a hole already there,
why in heaven's name would anyone ever want to use a drill. A
drill will grab and can cut the bore off line, while a reamer
will
follow the bore much better. With a reamer you will have a hard
time boring out of line where as with a drill removing the little
material that we have to remove can easily go a stray and totally
screw up the bore. Plus you can only get drills in a set dia.
where
with reamers you can get them in decimal sizes, .370, .371, .372
etc., etc. Now which would you rather be using???
As far as drill bits are concerned I just have
HSS and a roughing
set of high carbon, no cobalt, no carbide, just plain out HSS.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Colin, If you just want to bare min. then I would get a .373,
.375, .377 for irons and a .337, .339, .341 , .343 for metal
woods. But you must remember I never sand down a graphite shaft
to fit the hosel, I always ream the hosel to fit the shaft so
my
reamer sizes are a lot more than what I just posted.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Now as to the reamers. A lot of ST'ers lately have asked me what
reamers should they buy, my reply was not as many as I have. I
would get for metal woods a ; .335, / .337 / .339 / .341 / and
a
.343. For Irons i would get; .370 / .373 / .375 / .377 / .379
.
These should cover just about all your needs. I have/had reamers
in .001 increments from .335 up to .348 for woods and .370 up
to
.383 for irons. But as all ST'ers know I'm nuts plus I like tools.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Bill, there's only two ways of making an oversize hosel smaller;
1/ bore it out a little larger and insert a shim that has been
drilled almost to size, then finished after it's been epoxied
into
the hosel. Note very slow RPM when reaming, no heat. 2/ if the
bore is not that much oversize you can take an oversize 3/8-24
tap,
you can buy .005 oversize taps at your local tool supply house,
not
Home Deport, etc. By running the tap down the hosel bore you will
kick up a burr which will make the bore undersize. Then just run
a
reamer down the hosel bore and you will have a bore that's back
into
spec. Oversize taps can be purchased from the same place you buy
the reamers.
------------------------------------------------------------------
As to how much stock to remove safely, I've always posted that
you
should never try and remove more than .015 per side, but .0075
is
best.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Rick,
A drill has very sharp outer edges on the two flutes that dig
into the
material. If you look at a reamer you will see that most have
6 flutes,
none less than 6, but they are chamfered to allow an easy transition
into the hole. There's not enough material if using a drill for
the
drill to ride on, it just wants to dig in. The most amount of
stock
that you would want to remove with a reamer is .020, .010 per
side.
I can remove more but then I have the proper equipment to be able
to.
If more than .020 is needed to be removed from a hole and you
MUST
use a drill bit take the bit and grind off the the sharp outer
edge
before using. This will allow the drill to be kinder to you and
not
dig in as much.
Remember they don't just make reamers for the
fun of it, they serve a
very well needed purpose. Tool and die shops do not go to the
added
expense and time using a reamer just because. They do it because
a
reamer will hold the hole to a given size with out endangering
their
employees. If you were trying to open a .370 hosel bore to .375
and
tried to do it with a drill bit the best you could do would be
to open
the bore to .377. Because of my background I can take a .375 reamer
and open the .370 hole to .3745, that's .0005 under the size of
the
reamer. Try that with a drill bit. Can't do it every time but
I have
done it about 80% of the time. Or I can take a reamer and ream
the
.370 hole to .377 with the .375 reamer if I want. With a drill
bit
YOU have NO control what size the bore will come out to.
Hope this better explains the benefits of the reamer.
RK
Rick Sina wrote:
> RK -
>
> Not being a machinist, can you explain why it is dangerous
using a drill to
> make a whole larger. I have heard you over and over explain
the threat of
> loss to limbs and digits but in my mind I can't figure how/why
this might
> happen (believe me I'll use a reamer but it would be nice
to know why I am
> buying these damn things). Are there guidelines for how much
larger a hole
> can be made with each reamer - do you use them in succession
to remove
> additional material?
>
> We appreciate your knowledge
-------------------------------------------------------------------
I cut down the reamer's length for safty reasons not because I
can't
get them under the reamer/ chuck.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Ro, I have found that TT steel shafts are pretty close to the
advertised
size but their graphite's are sometimes over the oversize dim.
That's
why I call for so many reamers to cover these manufacturing defects.
If you don't have a chop saw or abrasive cut off wheel to trim
your
shafts then you can just go to your bench grinder and grind the
end
of the shank the you won't need off. Just use the edge of the
wheel
and dig right into the area that you wish to remove, Make sure
that
you notch 360* around the shank. Notch it in about a quarter of
the
way, again 360* around, then put it in your vise and clamp it
on the
ground out notch and hit it with a hammer, it will just break
off at
the grind mark. George is right on with the sizes, but like him
I
substitute a normal size reamer when I can. Like the .343 can
easily
be replaced by a .3438 ( 11/32") or a .399 is a "R"
reamer size, .377
is a "V" reamer size. These standard sizes will cost
a lot less than
the in between sizes.
I hope this better explains the problem. But
George is right on in his
explanation.
RK
George Lafleur wrote:
> Ro,
>
> I think you will be ok for TT shafts with the sizes that
you list. You
> might check with RK or TFlan as they have much more experience
than I do.
>
> You may find that the shanks are a little long for use in
a table top drill
> press with RK's reamer fixture. Just wack them off to the
size that works
> for you. Don't waste your time with a hacksaw. Use a chop
saw with a metal
> cutting blade. Ought to be easy to find someone to do it
for you. Try
> machine shops, metal sellers, iron fence builders, tool freaks
(yes, I have
> one).
>
> Here goes:
>
> MSC phone number (800) 645-7270.
>
> .337 02033371 13.44
> .339 02319184 8.03
> .341 02033413 13.44
> .343 02033439 13.44
> .375 02310241 7.03
> .377 02319226 8.94
> .379 02033793 15.03
>
> The crazy sizes are twice the price of the standard sizes.
Here's a
> standard size that you may want to substitute for the .343.
>
> .3438 02310225 7.40
>
> > george:
> >
> > thanks, i would really appreciate your help here. there
was only one
> > local source and they would have to order them. to complicate
matters,
> > we had a dialect problem. i want .337, .339, .341, .343,
.373, .375,
> > .377 and .379.
> >
> > also, it seems to me like true temper graphite shafts
are all
> > substantially larger than spec. do you any idea whether
they tend to be
> > larger than the sizes i listed above? and whether i
might need to get
> > larger sizes? (i have found that their shafts are particularly
worthy of
> > a controversial type of shaft matching and also they
are made in
> > mississippi so i tend to use a lot of them).
> >
> > i really appreciate your assistance with this; otherwise,
i got a
> > "skookum" hosel clamp and no reamers to ream
in it and life is tough
> > enough without that considerable additional strife.
> >
> > ro
> >
> > George Lafleur wrote:
> > >
> > > Ro,
> > >
> > > It's really not that hard, just unfamiliar. They
are called "Straight Flute
> > > Chucking Reamers" - really. If you call them
by that name you will get what
> > > you need.
> > >
> > > Sales people at tool supply places will know what
you want if you call them
> > > by their name. Then you have to tell them what
kind of steel you want them
> > > made of and the size you want.
> > >
> > > You want HSS (high speed steel) and you already
know the size. You don't
> > > want any other options (like coolant through the
shaft).
> > >
> > > This is the most basic reamers made. Seems like
any tool place would have
> > > them by the ton (except for the one you listed)
Lexcut has plenty of
> > > straight flute chucking reamers, but I saw no HSS.
They may have them if
> > > you ask. The ones in the Lexcut catalog look exactly
like what you want,
> > > they are just made out of the high price stuff.
> > >
> > > The easiest way to know you are getting warm is
the price. If it's more
> > > than $10 (more likely $5-6), then you don't want
it.
> > >
> > > BTW, the odd sizes that we need are harder to find.
Why fight it. MSC has
> > > them at a fair price. Start with one for irons
and one for woods. Go about
> > > .005 bigger than the typical shaft (after tip prep)
that you use.
> > >
> > > I'll be happy to give you the part numbers, price
and phone number for MSC
> > > if you tell me the size you want.
> > >
> > > Good Luck,
> > >
> > > George
> > >
------------------------------------------------------------------
Vito, you can safely ream .03215 of SS without any trouble. But
if you want to reream them to the same taper you have better have
a milling machine like I have because remember when rereaming
a
taper you have 100% contact, not like a straight reamer, so if
it bore is say 1 3/8 deep its like using a 2 3/4 drill. I just
ream them out parallel like your question.
RK
"Sparto, Vito (FUSA)" wrote:
> RK,
> What do you use to ream tapered tip irons? I thought
> you might need to start with something less than .370
> because the tapered irons are .355 or does the .370
> work?
------------------------------------------------------------------
Like Harold Still posted you can purchase a tapered ream from
GS / GW &
DC but be careful when purchasing one if you expect to use it
on several
different sets of irons or in some cases heads with in the same
set.
Tapered reamers may bottom out in side the hosel on some heads
but on
other heads with in the set do not go all the way to the bottom.
If it
bottoms out then the only way to use it is grind some off the
tip, which
will fit THAT iron but may not allow you to ream the entire set.
Also
you MAY be able to ream THAT entire set but trying to ream another
manufacturer it will not work. Just be careful when spending your
money, By the way Wholesale Tool sells a 1º cutter for less
than $15.00
------------------------------------------------------------------
Harold, it can be used for a number of things
1) reaming out holes, must be used on a solid piece of equipment,
not a
hand drill.
2) Taper required for the manufacture of blanking dies.
3) The draft required in the making of plastic and die cast molds.
I know that a tapered reamer is used in the
reaming of holes but in
production a tapered cutter is used because a reamer gets clogged
up
real fast were as with a cutter it only has three flutes most
of the
time which allows a lot of room for chips in between the flutes.
If I was using a 1º cutter on a drill
press I would first make sure it
was at least a 3/4 HP and the drill / hosel clamp was very well
built
and BOLTED to the table and the table was fully clamped in place
before
proceeding. For your info 1º = .017 per in.
RK
HStill@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 10/7/1999 9:10:09 PM
Eastern Daylight Time,
> rwkenn@sccoast.net writes:
> > By the way Wholesale Tool sells a
1º cutter for less than $15.00
> >
> RK:
> For us none machinist what is a 1* cutter used for ???????
------------------------------------------------------------------
U S I N G A C H A M F E R I N G T O O L
------------------------------------------------------------------
Keith, first off it's a 40º chamfering tool, 20º per
side angle, and it's
not a countersink. If you would like it to last twice as long
get
yourself some "Tap Magic". If you don't know what your
doing in cutting
SS DON'T use just any cutting oil. With Tap Magic it works very
well
with SS, if you can't find Tap Magic cut it dry.
RK
ps; You can buy a 100% carbide chamfer tool from WT for around
1/2 the
price as GS's. Plus you can get it serrated which cuts a lot better
and
the tool will last longer.
Keith Anderson wrote:
> Should I be using cutting oil with my
20* countersink? I have the GS
> version. P.S. I really hope that chinese download thing is
over. Keith
------------------------------------------------------------------
M A K I N G G R O O V E S L E S S A G G R E S S I V E
------------------------------------------------------------------
Brent, fill in the grooves with "Liquid Steel' wait about
5
minutes then scrape off the excess then wait about 1 hour
then lightly sand the face of the club going against the
grooves, (90*). I use a 240 to 320 grade. Not too heavy but just
to bring it back to the orginal surface.
This will leave you enough groove to spin the
ball but will not
scuff the ball. I do this every time I build a set of clubs and
the customer has that problem.
What's happened is at the foundry to make their
molds for
investment casting last longer they make the grooves just
a tad deep and as they use the molds the grooves in the
mold wear down, since they are the easiest and thinnest
section in the mold.
RK
--- Brent Olson <BrentO@point.com> wrote:
> >Purchased a new Titleist Vokey wedge and hitting balls
> >with the club leaves large and deep abrasions on the
cover.
> >Is there anything I can do to the
> >face of the club so I do not ruin every golf ball I hit
with it?
------------------------------------------------------------------
C H O P S A W C U T T O F F W H E E L S
------------------------------------------------------------------
(This in response to a discussion on chop saws, one had a 3,800
rpm
the other around 9,000 rpm, and thin and thick cut off wheels)
I hate to jump in here at this late date "BUT"
I just can't sit by
and let this much misinformation go on answered. The reason for
the two different spindle speeds is due to the fact that the faster
speed "REQUIRES' a smaller wheel than the slower speed. WITH
THE
THINNER wheels you have a much better chance of getting yourself
"BADLY HURT" than with the thicker wheel.
And another MYTH a thinner or thick cut off
wheel makes no difference
in the taping or not taping of a graphite shaft. When you are
cutting off any part of a graphite shaft 95% of what you are doing
is
melting the resin & glass that bond the whole thing together,
so
taping of the shaft does diddle squat when using an abrasive cut
off
wheel. Over the years I have "EXPLODED" about 1000 thin
cut off
wheels doing tool & die work but to date, a little over 21
years,
I have "YET" to have one of the thicker wheels even
look like its
going bad.
------------------------------------------------------------------
R E M O V I N G A B R O K E N S H A F T
------------------------------------------------------------------
Graham, What you do is stack up a bunch of 3/8" washers or
something
that has a hole thru it that is larger than 3/8" and about
1' thick.
Run the tap down as far as you can, bottom tap if you can also
afford
one, then take a length of threaded rod about 4 to 6 inches long.
Put three nuts on to the threaded rod two to act as jam nuts and
one
to pull with. You will also need one washer so that you will be
pulling just the broken shaft and not binding up the pull nut
on the
spacer. Now with the two jam nuts thread the rod into the broken
shaft as far as you can, in some cases I have used just the threaded
rod and just kept on screwing it into the broken shaft, but if
that
does't work. Apply heat and tighten the single nut against the
washer
/ 1' spacer making sure NOT to put too much pressure as to strip
out
the threads. Just make sure to apply plenty of heat.
RK
Please don't do something stupid and try and drill it out. I've
been making clubs now for over 22 years and Tom F has been at
it for
more than 35 years and both of us don't do drill bits
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Little" <gdlittle@ois.net.au>
> RK
>
> Can you tell me a little about how this works please? I'm
assuming
> you tap into the inside of the shaft, take it out and then
screw
> in the threaded rod. I'm then a little lost about the spacers,
> washers and nuts. How is it held in the vice?
>
> Thanks
> Graham
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Richard Kennedy <golf-equipment@sc.rr.com>
> > John, you must use some sort of spacer
to have it work. The spacer has
> > got to be at least 1.0" long with a 11/32"
hole all the way thru. Then
> > what you need is an oversized 5/16-18 tap. You can buy
the oversized
> > tap at Wholesale Tool. You will also need a length of
5/16-18 thread
> > rod, about 6" in length and 3 nuts. and one thick
3/8" washer.
> >
> > RK
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "John Payne" <jcpayne@adelphia.net>
> > > Jents:
> > >
> > > I need to pull a shaft from an iron head that broke
off below
> > > the hosel. I know I've seen it mentioned here before
but could
> > > someone please post what size tap to get to pull
this out with.
> > > It's a standard .370 steel shaft.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance,
> > >
> > > John Payne