Installing Leather Grips
When doing Leather grips the hardest part is to get the grip collar up over
the leather
and the underlisting. I use heat shrinkable tubing available at most auto
parts stores. Put the tubing on first as you would with the grip collar.
Then after you install the grip slide the tubing over the grip and apply
light heat from the heat gun or hair dryer. You will wind up with a perfect
fit every time. from:Hoby List ; Hoby's golfworks.
Formula for measuring Swing Speed-If you don't have a device to measure
swing speed use this handy formula: If you have a 5 iron with 28 degree
loft divide carry by
2.5 X cos. 28 degrees (.8829) Example: Carry: 160 yds divided by 2.20725
=72.49 mph
I found this on a crumpled piece of paper but I think it came from an old
PCS Journal.
cos. 27 degrees:.8910 cos. 29 degrees: .8746 (multiply by 2.5)
Tipping Graphite Shafts. Plumbing sandcloth is excellent for tipping
graphite shafts. It's tough, flexible, and one piece about 6 inches long
will tip approximately 200 shafts. A 15 yard roll costs about six dollars
and can be purchased at any plumbing supply store. Joe Lavery, PCS Sept/Oct.95
Hosel Bore and Shaft Penetration. Hosel bore and shaft penetration
is a measure many novice clubmakers overlook. You may have the heads, shafts
and grips sorted to correct weights and find the assembled clubs do not
correlate to the specifications you are trying to accomplish. Static weight,
swing weight, club length;, and flex will all be affected. Heads should
be checked for correct specifications making sure hosel bore will allow
the same penetration for each shaft. Many sets of heads have bore variances
as much as one quarter of an inch. Slhaft penetration is a very important
measurement that should not be overlooked no matter what system you use
in assembly.
Len Dunsford PCS Sept./Oct. 95
Reduce Test Club Inventory. Try using SA2000 adhesive instead
of epoxy when building test clubs for your customers. SA 2000 is an elastic,
high shear strength, catalytic super adhesive that cures in one minute and
has low breakdown temperature for easy disassembly. This procedure has helped
reduce my test club inventory because the heads can easily be swapped and
the customer appreciates not having to wait more than a few minutes to try
a custom built club. SA 2000 may be purchased through Golftowne at 1-800-217-7121.
Dana Upshaw PSC July/August 95
Cleaning graphite fragments from hosel. Cut approximately 2 and
one half inches of the tip off of a steel shaft (.370 for irons and .335
for woods) and file four slots in it. Bevel the interior dimension of the
graphite shaft left in the hosel with an eighteen degree taper bit. The
insert the steel tip in a three eighths drill and drill out the remaining
shaft and epoxy. John Drescher PCS July/Aug. 95
Add custom color to clubhead stampings. When closing a
custom fit sale explain that you can paint fill the stampings to match the
customers' graphite shafs or favorite team colors. Lightly daub some finishing
poly over the painted stamp, steel wool stamping, and wipe away the excess.
Repeat the process twice and the color will remain crisp for years. Al
Beauleaux PCS May/June 95
Longer lasting sandpaper. When sanding graphite tips, put plastic
tape behind the sandpaper to strengthen it. This keeps the paper from tearing
and it last ten times longer.
David Bierleyy PCS May/June 95
Eliminate epoxy smears. Eliminate smeared epoxy and the possibility
of loose epoxy creating a shaft rattle when working with shaft corks by
using hand cleaner, such as Go-Jo which is suitable for heavy duty shop
use and makes a fine lubricant on shaft tip corks to ease their seating.
Perhaps the best feature is that it dries. Works great on the grandkid's
handle bar grips too!
Dan Siemion PCS May/June 95
Ferrule Spinner. Most clubmakers have experienced losing their
grip on the club head when trying to spin it against the moving cloth belt
and end up getting a flat spot on the ferrule which is hard to fix. My solution
is a homemade leather wrap with a metal handle on it secured with a velcro
strap. The shorter one pictured with the angled strap is for irons and the
longer one is for woods. Because of the many shapes of woods, a rubber binder
or to over the wrapped club head will help to hold it in place. I also use
a small wooden bridge to hold the club while spinning it. I can do a complete
set of ferrules in about ten minutes with very good results.
Roger Carlson PCS Jan/Feb 95
Space saving solutions. Build a club rack for work in progress
by cutting a strip of 2 by 4 and cut at an angle of about 45 degree grooves
of one cm every six to eight inches apart. Mount the strip on a wall so
that the 2 by 4 is some 4 inches to 6 inches from the wall. Clubs can be
slid into and up the ;grooves and held firmly until required for further
work. Be very careful with graphite shafts as there is a danger of scratching
the finish. Shaft Storage. Obtain a number of plastic rain water
downpipes two and one half inch square. Cut 2 foot length and epoxy them
vertically six at a time to strips of wood one inch by 2 inches. Epoxy the
separate sections together and mount them on a wooded frame next to your
bench with a plywood front. This is a floor area of some 19 inches by twenty
four inches. I have 36 separate compartments each capable of holding 16
shafts. The identity code for each group of shafts is labeled on the adjacent
mounting strip.
European PCS Member PCS Jan/Feb 95
Protect against solvents. We all use solvents that can be absorbed
into the skin eg. grip solvents and general clean up thinners that do our
body harm. Being an ex-automotive parts person I wanted to know what automotive
body shop painters use to spray poisonous paint. They use a special rubber
glove made by Survive Air Company part number 6533. I use these very strong
and thin gloves for everything that we use rubber gloves for and they last.
To order a catalog or receive a listing of dealers in your area call 1-800-262-0200.
Terry Visosky PCS Nov/Dec. 94
Save on sanding belts. Locate a saw sharpening shop in your neighborhood
and ask the operator to save the used sanding belts. since they only use
the edges the rest is perfect for our use. In my ten plus year of golf club
assembly I have purchased only three belts. Donald Fredrickson PCS Nov/Dec.
94
Affordable hosel brushes. Hosel brushes can be had at any local
plumbing or hardware store for two dollars or so. They are steel coper tubing
cleaners and the I've found is one half inch diameter. Not to worry, they
turn down easily on a bench grinder to fit woods or irons.
Dan Siemion PCS Nov/Dec. 94
Barreled Hosel Ferrules. The Bohning Company makes a barreled
hosel ferrule that is perfect for rebuilding Wilson Ultra, Tommy Armour
845 and 855's etc. (and for assembly of the many barreled hosel heads
made by the various component manufacturers, ed.). They hide the center
bores in the hosel giving the club a finished look and cover up any manufacturing
defects. The unique appearance they give to the club is very appealing to
customers.
Ian McAra PCS Nov/Dec. 94
I've spent a lot of time looking for a clean rag, towel, etc., to clean up
the inevitable spills that happen. I solved the problem by mounting a
toilet paper dispenser under the edge of my workbench. TP is perfect for
wiping excess epoxy off a hosel, etc. Also, I mounted a modified paper
towel roller above the bench. I drilled a 3/4" hole through the ends and
installed a broom handle. I then cut a roll of towelling in half and
installed it on the modified holder. Its perfect for mopping up larger
spills.
No more looking for rags, and there's always a clean wiper at hand.
Tom Flanagan
TDFlanag@worldnet.att.net
Today's Tech Tip sounds more like "Hints from Heloise" than technical
advice, but it's really good! I have to give credit to Chuck Bentley of
Chuck's Golf in Rensselaer, NY for this one:
If you've ever had to reshaft a hollow metal wood head and lost or
destroyed the plug that goes in the bottom of the hosel, you run about a
99% chance of getting a rattle in the head after you install the new
shaft epoxy that gets into the head). To avoid this problem, just get a common
paper punch hole cutter (you probably have one lying around the house,
ask your kids), and punch a hole from, say, a Clorox bottle.
Insert it in the hosel, where it will rest on the shoulder at the bottom
of the hosel, and go ahead and install the new shaft. No chance of getting a
rattle now!
Regards to all,
Jeff Parrott :) Chicago Golf & Sports, Inc.
Online at:
http://www.chicago-golfsports.com
I like the ease of cutting shafts on my table saw, but found a lot of
trouble lining the cutting disk up with the mark on the shaft.
I built a template to tape on the saw table. I set good old PCWrite on 8
lines per inch, then used the lines to make a Ruler 5" long, labelling the
lines every 1/4 inch.
Place the paper ruler square on the saw table and verify the placement by
cutting the ruler with the saw Exactly on the mark. Tape into position.
Very simple to cut precisely using the squared slot guide with the sliding
protractor set square, or at the angle needed for a bore-thru head.
It works for me! No more wrong length trims.
Colin Dick
"Chairman of the Devious Ways and Means Committee"
Big Butt Shaft Tricks-.I forgot to mention my trick with the Winn grip caps.I just cut a few
small pieces of two sided tape and apply to the part of the grip cap that
inserts in the shaft. This prevents the grip cap from falling out, but
allows it to be removed if needed without damaging the grip. I have been
playing with my Big Butt driver for 6 months now and haven't had the grip
cap fall out yet. Good luck.
P.S. I also like to use the stretchable grip collars on the bottom of the
grip to dress it up. I use the tape provided to hold the grip and then put
the stretch collar over that just for decoration. Remember to put the
collar on from the tip end BEFORE you glue the head on, as it won't stretch
enough to fit over the butt of the shaft.
This method has stopped all ferrule creeping for me:
Before epoxying the shaft in the head, I roll the shaft tip in the epxoy to
an almost invisible film. Then place the ferrule on and move into roughly its
final place. Then go ahead and epoxy as usual. that extra epoxy under the
ferrule will keep it in place.
Good luck.
Mark Weidel
Here's a start of my favorites:
1. Freq. Anyl. Use rubber band in the hosel to hold clubhead firm enough
for the freq. machine to give a good reading. I made an effort to find
the poster of this, but couldn't. I also use thin aluminium strips.
2. Blowing grips- Haven't looked for the recent contributor. Put varsol
or whatever you use to lubricate grip tape down the shaft. Insert
compressor tip and invert so the butt is down, (Have a tube over grip to
avoid explosions), fire some air into the grip hole. The fluid will be
forced under the grip, loosening it at least a little. Clamped in this
position, a little twisting with a little more air if needed will let you
slip the grip off easily. Leave the last inch or so of the grip attached
until you remove the airhose tip, putting a tee in or your finger to stop
the solvent leaking. Take it off and dump the solvent into your recycle
can. (Scroll down for another grip blowing method, Ed.)
3. Clean the shaft- I keep a roll of paper towels over my bench for messy
cleanups. I tear them in the easy direction to the size I need at the
moment. I clean the old tape off the shaft with a little tool I made from
an old shaft butt. Cut the .600 butt in half lengthwise about 1 to 3",
then cut off one of the two halves. Round the edges of the cut to avoid
future cuts to you, and grind the round outside of the Butt end to a sharp
edge. The other end can be ct to any length you find comfortable (Mine is
13") and an old grip over it makes a good handle. Use this to remove old
tape. GS and/or GW have a tool for this, but I made my own.
4. Clean out the grip now while it is wet. Plug the butt hole with a tee,
then use a steel brush and a good squirt or two of solvent to clean out
the tape and slime. The GS butt brush is OK, but I preferred one a little
larger. I found a Plumber's pipe cleaner best. These are steel, perhaps
a tad too large, but twisting them into a .600 butt IN THE SAME DIRECTION
as the twistwill get the size down a bit. Now, these brushes are too
short. I extended mine with a heavy wire folded firmly clamped just below
the brush part, then twisted in the same direction. One I found had a
wooden handle which I fitted to my extended brush.
It is a good idea to wrap the grip to avoid getting guck all over it.
Insert the brush gently, twisting in the same direction as the wire, and
pushing it in slowly, all the way to the end. A straight withdrawal will
bring a lot of tape out. I keep a regular stiff steel brush handy to
remove the tape extracted from the grip.
Repeat as needed, adding more solvent as required. This method is much
better and faster than any other method I tried.
4. Cleaning tape from steel grip brushes. These brushes get VERY clogged
and were a pain to clean. I solved my problem by immersing my wooden
backed steel brush in water, covering the wood part. Then took it outside
and burned the clogged steel brush with my butane torch. The steel grip
brush clans well by setting it on fire too. This was yesterday I tried
this and it works well. Rinse with the hose and it looks brand new.
Colin Dick
'Chairman of the Devious Ways & Means Committee'
Here's a tip for a better epoxy bond. Do not use the same stick to
apply epoxy that you used to mix it. The mixing stick will be coated
with the 1st part that is contacts and it will not mix well on the
stick. If you use this same stick to apply expoy and scrape it against
the shaft or hosel you may be applying some poorly mixed epoxy.
--
Ed Lavoie
May I be so bold as to offer another way to blow grips?
- Just inject about 5 or 10 CC's of solvent, directly through the relief
hole, into the shaft (inside). Then place the air nozzel into the hole,
(with a tube over the grip) and invert the club. (Head into the air, butt
down). Then give it a shot of air. NOTE: Be careful NOT to get solvent
into your eyes at this point. The purpose of this, is to "blow" some
solvent down and arround the butt of the shaft, out to the outside of it,
under the grip . Next, you put the head end down, (usually on the floor),
with a piece of tubing (I use a piece of tubing from a washing machine
drain hose, - anything will do), still over the grip, leaving just the butt
end exposed. Now you apply the air, and in most cases, after a few
seconds, POP! the grip is loose, or mostly so. You may need to slide the
tubing down a bit, and twist the grip in a few places to work it completely
loose. (Be sure _NOT_ to give it more than just a very small blast of air,
when the tube is not in place, as it could rupture, and you don't want
solvent in your eyes, etc.) Then when the grip is completely loose, just
slide the tube back up, and hold it, and the last inch of the butt in one
hand, and with the other, give it a blast of air, while at the same time,
quickly sliding it off the end of the shaft. Then just blow the rest of
the solvent out of the shaft.
That's all there is to it. I get about a 95% sucess rate with this method,
and it is quite fast.
Hope someone finds this method usefull.
Jorgen
digit@sk.sympatico.ca
http://www3.sk.sympatico.ca
Does anyone have a technique for aligning single bend and double bend
shafts in putters?
Here's a neat trick. When you assemble the club, put the shaft in the head
and place the face of the putter flat on your bench. Rotate the shaft so it
too lies flat on the bench and you've got a well aligned shaft!
Good luck.
Mark Weidel
ProTech Golf
www.protechgolf.com
DISCUSSION ON BLOWING ON GRIPS
It is how most of the OEM's install grips - personally I use an aluminum
cylinder that I machined to just slide over the butt end of the grip and it
extends down the length of the grip approx. 6"
You do need compressed air - I have a regulator on my supply line and it
feeds a foot operated air valve. Air line is connected to the end of the
cylinder - (inside of the cylinder @ the butt end is a fitting both inside
and outside - outside one connects to air line from foot operated valve -
inside one - when you put grip into cylinder - then this little tube will go
thru the hole in the butt of grip.
You only need about 60 psi of air pressure to accomplish this. You can use
anything from petroleum jelly to gasket cement or even water at the lip of
the grip to just get it rolled up onto the shaft. Once the lip of the grip
is started blow air into grip and continue blowing as you slip grip down
shaft. It takes a few times to get the hang of it, but once you do - you can
grip a set of clubs in 5 minutes at most. Takes longer to set club up in
vise.
Remember - contrary what was posted earlier here on shoptalk. One layer of
build up tape @ .005" thickness is what all grip sizes are determined at. So
in order to accomplish the correct grip size for that individual - install
one layer of tape at a mininum. Double sided tape is not required for
installing grips - it is only handy to make the surface slippery so you can
slide the grip on - only purpose of double sided tape.
Yes, Mr. Bozeman - good observation is correct - like you stated in your so
observant manner. Nothing meant by it, only a suggestion to the people who
do not want to use solvents. I cannot believe some of the things some of the
clubmakers were using as a solvent.
If you do this as a full time business, and your insurance agent finds out
some of the volatile substances you folks are using. Well - he is not going
to make you change, but after he gets thru with your pocket book - he will
have gotten the message across.
Hope this helps some of you - who were inquiring about blowing on grips.
Almost all of the OEM's do it -
How to check lie with a table saw_
I do a lot of carpentry work, so I'm used to working with miters,
etc., and I use my table saw to figure out the correct angle before I
cut.
The table saw has a rip fence that runs parallel to the blade. You
lay the sole of the club against the rip fence and the shaft against
the miter guage. Adjust the miter guage until the sole of the club
runs smooth against the rip fence. The reading on the miter guage
will be the lie of the club.
The blade on a table saw can also be adjusted from 90 degrees down to
40 degrees or less. Simple set the sole of the club flat on your
table saw and adjust the blade until it is flush with the face of the
club to get your loft.
I recently took an old drill press apart so I could use the base as a
miter for the same purpose and have it mounted on my work bench.
I also keep a bar of canning wax on my table to use for lubricating.
Just rub it on any moving parts and you avoid messy oils.
Dave
One thing that comes in handy in my shop is a piece of wire rack which
was cut off from closet shelving. I use it mounted to a pegboard over my
bench. I have attached it to the pegboard with a couple of the hangers which normally
get screwed into the wall onto pegs, and used two of their angled shelf supports on
the front which can be swivelled out to let the shelf go flat. It is great for
holding shafts when assembling and also clubs for drying. total cost was about six or
seven dollars.
Bob Trimble
trimble@concentric.net
More Bench Space
I have made a shelf over my bench with gate hinges. I now have my swing
wieght scale up at eye level and can swing it out to read both grams and ounces. Gained a
lot of bench space.
Larry Frissell
Homemade shaft puller
I made a shaft puller with a couple of vises. Mount one of the vises on
the front of a bench running parallel with the front edge. On the end of
the bench, mount a vise perpendicular to the front of the bench. Take a
piece of 1/8th or 1/4 inch aluminum bar stock and attach it to the moveable
jaw on the vise on the end of the bench. Make a notch the size of the
shaft in the bar stock. You have to shim the first vise or second vise so
that the shaft will clear the fixed jaw of the vise on the end of the
bench. You can crank the pressure on and heat it so it will break loose as
soon as the epoxy breaks down.
"What is the real scoop on spines on shafts? Do they
>exist? If so, should they be specifically positioned in a particular
>manner into the clubhead?
>
>The Answer is very long so I will include most, but not all of it.
> "...Despite the fact these explanations seem logical, <as to the existence
>of a spine> our information indicates that shafts, whether steel or fiber
>composite, do not have a spine. X-ray tests cannot detect the weld line on
>steel shafts after processing, while the ends of the various composite
>layers in a graphite shaft actually spiral the length of the shaft.
> However, what shafts do have, and what tools such as the spine finder can
>detect, are variations in the shaft wall thickness and /or concentricity
>which may or may not, depending upon their severity, have an effect on shot
>performance. Therefore, clubmakers should not be concerned about shafts
>being imperfect and flawed. If the shafts you buy come from reputable
>manufacturers, most of the variations in wall thickness and concentricity
>are slight and do not have an affect on playability. However, there can
>exist some models of shafts or some errantly made shafts within a large
>production run which may have enough variation that could cause shotmaking
>problems with some players. Therefore, it can be advisable for the
>clubmaker to invest in a deflection machine or frequency analyzer to
>perform a quick quality check of each shaft they buy..." < they then go on
>to explain how to check frequency in the four different planes for
>consistency> "..If any one shaft varies among the four separate readings by
>3cpm or less, the variation will not be enough to cause random problems in
>performance. However, if there are variations of 6cpm or more within the 4
>readings you may choose to identify the position at which that shafts
>frequency most closely matches the readings on the rest of the shafts in
>the set. To insure consistency, you may then install the shaft(s) in the
>appropriate position(s) relative to the clubface.... Ideally, enough
>shafts should be sorted in any pre-installation test of the shafts so that
>such variations in stiffness can be avoided. In addition, clubmakers
>should also be aware that any testing and intentional positioning of the
>shaft in the clubhead for the purpose of enhancing performance is
>considered to be a violation of the USGA Rules of Golf."
To me, these are very important issues we all should be concerned about.
If we don't consistently reexamine our assumptions and practices how do we
learn and advance clubmaking in general?
How is it that when you put an undersized grip on a shaft you
come out with an oversized grip?
When you force something big into something smaller you cause it to change
shape. In this case the grip becomes larger. Ed B..
Budget Epoxy Appliers
I've been using plastic swizzel sticks for applying epoxy. Use the
solid ones with larger ball heads and not only does it mix nice, but
you can apply expoxy easily to the base of the hosel and along the
walls. Works very nice and it's fun collecting them. I get mine from
Seven & Seven! :) Dave
More budget tools
I just got back from the dentist and thought this might be of interest.
The hygenist uses a number different tools/probes when cleaning teeth.
All sorts of shapes and sizes for cleaning hard to reach places. Well,
when a tip is broken off one of these tools it is unusable as a dental
instrument, but is perfect for odd tasks in the shop -- scraping epoxy
residue from the inside of a hosel, cleaning curing epoxy from around
the ferrule, cleaning groves, etc. These things are very narrow and
rigid which makes them excellent for working in areas that are hard to
reach.
Anyway, I was able to pick up three of these things that are no longer
of use to the dentist...for FREE. Next time your at the dentist, it's
worth asking about it...just don't do it when they are actually in your
mouth.
Keep it in the short grass,
Doug Rezabek
Huntsville, AL
Tip: Metal broom hangers work great for holding golf clubs too.
Use two per club and have some mounted for horizontal hanging and
some for vertical work. The grip end holds snug but you may have
to use the rubber vise grip when inserting the tip end of the
shaft. They cost about 50 cents each and give you that extra
hand when you need it most.
How can I finish ferrules without a belt sander?
Here's another way. My wife picked up some Purifiles emery boards for
her fingernails. They have a fine, white "sandpapery" surface that just
won't come off and are about 3/4" wide. Tape both shaft and hozel, sand
while rotating club in your hand and when done, just tap the emery
board on a hard surface and most of sanded plastic falls off. Board is
almost clean and ready to use again. These work very well for ferrules
about 3/4" size. You can also find emery boards at 1/2" or less for
smaller ferrules. Finish up with acetone on old handkerchief or cotton
balls (the kind with fibers that don't come out and stick to the
ferrule) as others have noted.
Bernie
How can I finish ferrules without a belt sander?
Use fine grit sandpaper, 150, and/or plumbers cloth. Tape
the shaft and hosel where they meet the ferrule. Put the shaft
in a rubber clamp and secure it in your bench vise. Leave it
loose to the turn and rotate it as you turn down the ferrule.
Use the sandpaper, or plumbers cloth, the width of the ferrule
or smaller. Hold both ends and rock it like you are shinning
shoes. Works like a charm and will not take you long.
Hope it helps you out in a pinch.
Cleaning Berylium Copper clubheads
If your customer bring some berylleym copper head clubs for regripping. You
can clean it very easy and CHEAP way in while you regripping other clubs of
set. Sink the perylleum club head into the Coca Cola (or PEPSI) and let it
be there about one hour. After that you will seen very bright and clean
clubhead. It really works!
Budget Epoxy Mixing Cups
Get on good terms with your local nurse. They use small plastic cups
togive medicine to patients. They are very inexpensive and she just might
give you a hand full of cups.They are great!! And Recyclable, after the epoxy
dries it will pop right out of the cup and you can reuse it!!
Mixing Epoxy
I found a source of old filter paper from a lab that was a type they no longer
used. It is about 4" to 6 " in dia and comes 100 to box. Also use the Bambo
sticks to mix with and apply to clubs and shaft. GS school recomended 2 short
sections of masking tape on the bench.
To Remove an Iron Head that is jammed on a steel shaft I use a 47" ram rod
and drive the head free. You may have to beat on it real hard but it will work.
(this is for heads that get stuck before epoxy is applied).
JOHN McGREW
Fitting very tall people
If it hasn't been mentioned already, True Temper is coming out with a shaft
called the TTXL, which will be an extra long version of the TT Lite.
I've also had good luck using Rifle 1-iron shafts and the frequency analyzer
to do the trimming.
Mark Weidel
ProTech Golf
Make your own ribbed grips
I wanted to put those Posi-Trac XL wrap grips (the ones that are longer
than standard) on my wedges, but they only came in round, and I wanted
ribbed grips. So I took a piece of 2" masking tape as long as the grip and
rolled it into a strip about 1/8" or 1/4" and stuck it to the bottom side
of the shaft. Then I put the double-sided tape over top of it and put the
grip on. Voila! Instant rib. Michael Chow <michow@infomatch.com>
How do I stop Ferrule Creep?
Scuff the area under the ferrule, put a film of epoxy around the tip of the
shaft and slide the ferrule over the epoxy. Ed B.
Cleaning grips/ferrules and clubs after assembly
I've found that when you are cleaning up a set of clubs after
construction, or regripping, a little WD-40 on a paper towel takes
off all the tape residue, flecks of epoxy or what-ever. It also does
a nice job on putting a shine on ferrules (just a little on a paper
towel, hold the ferrule pinched between two fingers, and spin the
club around).
Cheap/Easy Bore thru plugs
use a cork (the kind used to keep lead down the shaft) and stuff it in about 3/16 inch
then put a drop of paint dispersion into your remaining shafting epoxy (you are done shafting
at this point) and cover the cork with epoxy. Wipe any slop over off and when it sets, it looks
like a real pro job. George
Cleaning golf club heads
My very first post concerned the fact that Tide Laundry Detergent has
the same active ingredient used in metal club cleaner.
I keep a 2 gallon bucket of Tide mixed in my shop.....whenever anyone
gives me a club I simply soak the club for about one minute in the
bucket and towel dry it.....Looks like a million bucks, and really
makes the customer feel special when I return their club.
Dave
Cleaning up the inside of hosels
A 3/8 cobalt bit (cost around $9) will clean up any iron hosel in short
order.(Exceptions-tapered heads and os hosels) 11/16 bit for wood heads.
No monkeying around-just a wistle-clean hosel.
For tight fits, don't baby it. Go hard and fast. machinist's advice for
stainless.
Leo
I created a solvent recovery system out of a paint pan and some other parts around the shop. I bored a small hole (3/16) in the corner of the paint pan. Keep the hole near the edge, just before the turn upward. On the underside I glued, with a glue gun, a small funnel to the pan. A vinyl hose attached to the funnel carries the solvent to a small plastic soda bottle. A wooden jig, to which the pan attaches, tilts the pan a bit forward and to the side so all the fluid will run to the hole. When I grip shafts, the end of the shaft is out from the end of the bench. The recovery systems sits on a stool below the shaft and catches all the excess solvent.
Bruce
Bee Tee Golf
Deflection board/frequency meter differences.
Deflection boards measure static performance of the golf shaft whereas the
frequency analyzer measures dynamic performance. The dynamic performance
measurement is closer to the action of the shaft in the swing. It therefore
givesmeasurements that are better in prediction of the performance of the
club. Thestatic measurement ignores vibration damping factors and other
higher frequencybehaviors. It is also a very insensitive measurement, i.e.
using a ruler when amicrometer is needed. I have measured many shafts that
were deflection sorted bythe shaft manufacturers. The shafts routinely had
a range of CPM measurements of10-12. The shafts were supposed to have the
same flex. The CPM range can oftenspan two flex ranges. One shaft company
told me that they were trying to implementa practical automated frequency
measurement system and that they would drop the deflection measurement.
Don't know if they finally did.
Low Cost Scotchbrite Finishing Wheel
While cruising the aisles of a local "Home Base" building supplies
store yesterday, I noticed for sale a paint removal device consisting of
two 1/2" x 5" ScotchBrite wheels, joined together with a 1/4"
spindle. Its intended for use in a drill motor. I bought one, removed the
spindle, and installed the wheel onto my bench grinder. Tried it out on
a bore through and it works as well as did the $30.00 ScotchBrite I used
to have. Cost? $8.97.
Not bad huh?
TFlan
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